Take a few moments to consider what is lurking inside your garage and how you might quickly get it prepared for the coming colder months.

Not a breezeway: It is important to check the doors of your garage for air leaks, most importantly any doors that lead from the garage into your home. If the door doesn’t seal properly or if venting from an attached laundry is askew, you can experience air leaks both into and out of your home. During the fall and winter, losing warm air from your home to your garage can cost you a considerable chunk of change. And if carbon monoxide emissions from your vehicle enter your home, it can cost you and your family even more dearly. Taking 10 minutes to check and repair any air leaks in your garage entrance can save you money, health, and maybe your life.

Icky chemicals: If you garage is like mine, it is home to a variety of chemical products that are used around the house. Over time and with temperature fluctuations, these products can emit nasty toxins into the air. And if the packaging is damaged, you may find yourself up to your elbows in messy chemical leaks. To prevent these messy situations, take the time now to sort and store paint, fertilizer, pesticides and other household chemicals in sealed plastic containers.

For the birds: Many homeowners in the northwest like to encourage birds to visit their backyards by hanging feeders. In my yard, the seed is appreciated by finches, towhees, robins, and more, especially in the harsh, hard-to-find-snacks seasons of winter and spring. Storing the seed in my garage makes sense. To keep out any other creatures (think mice and squirrels) who might enjoy moving into a warm home with a buffet, store the seed in heavy plastic or metal bins with secure lids.

Store it: If you use your garage as storage for off-season clothes, old papers, and holiday decorations, now is the time to create an elevated storage system for these valued items. Leaks in your garage can saturate treasured keepsakes turning them into trash. Not all leaks will be evident with the initial rains; some will appear after months of rain. So this fall, check your garage for evidence of leaks and put in shelves or roof-suspended storage (http://ezinearticles.com/?Overhead-Garage-Storage—Find-New-Storage-in-Your-Garage-With-DIY-Garage-Ceiling-Storage-Racks&id=4452486) in your garage. You’ll be happy you did.

Muddy Buddy: During the long wet rainy season in the Pacific Northwest, many homeowners use the garage as an impromptu mud room. Go one step further this summer and convert an area of your garage into a muddy buddy. All you need are a few convenience items – a boot tray to hold muddy, wet shoes; a floor mat or scraper for cleaning shoes; a rack for coats and hats; and a stool or bench for changing shoes. Creating this little muddy haven now can mean cleaner floors and fewer last minute “Where are my shoes?” moments when you’re heading out the door this fall.

Previous posts in this series:

Part 1: Tips for Cleaning Up Your Yard and Garden

It's before Labor Day and some of our trees are already showing signs that they're getting ready for winter. You should, too.

In this three-part post, we’re sharing our advice on getting your home ready for fall. We’ve broken down the information into bite-sized bits that should be easy to tackle – whether you’re doing a little at a time over the next few weeks, or taking on all your preparations over the long holiday weekend.

Fall Fix Ups: Yard and Garden

The weather is still warm and dry. The kids are out of school for a few more days. All you really want to do is enjoy these last sunny days of summer. Do I have to clean up the yard now? you think. Well, of course you don’t have to do it now, but if you wait, you’ll be shivering in your slicker in the rain trying to clean up your yard later.

Here’s our to-do list to make your yard clean up a snap:

Trim, trim, trim: Overgrown plants that touch your house can become a superhighway for pests like spiders and insects. And as the weather turns cooler, they’ll be looking for a warm place to nest. Overhanging tree limbs can damage roofs and windows, and the leaves they shed in fall can clog gutters. By trimming back trees, shrubbery, and summer plants now, you’ll save yourself a lot of hassle next season. Also, be sure to rake away any foliage that is near your foundation, especially if it is edible, to discourage pests and siding damage.

Stop sprinkling: As the rainy season sets in, you’ll need to water your lawn less and less. Take the time now to flush your in-ground sprinkler system and have the back flow checked. This will save you time next summer when you need those sprinklers to be working. If you have been using a hose-operated sprinkler, empty those hoses and bring them inside for storage. If they are left outside during the winter, wet hoses will be prone to splitting and cracking, forcing you to replace them at an added expense next summer.

Store safely: Once you’ve brought in your harvest of zucchini and tomatoes and made your last bouquet of glads and dahlias, it is time to clean and store your summer gardening tools. Oiling and sharpening any blades will make your spring garden prep easier. But be sure to keep your rake, leaf blower, and lawn mower handy. As the fall progresses, you will need to drain your lawn mower and store it for the winter, but during the transition season in the northwest, we still get plenty of sun and rain, making mowing necessary a while longer.

Swab the deck: When the summer barbeques are all done it is time to winterize your deck or patio. Clean your patio furniture and grill. Store them in a safe, dry location for the winter. Month after month of driving rain can rust out a new grill in a season. And wind storms throw branches that can tear through patio chairs and break tables. Keep your items safe in a garage or shed for the winter. And check out how to make your deck clean and sturdy in our previous blog post.

Winterize your lawn: Fall is a great time to refurbish your lawn. Thatching, fertilizing, and reseeding will keep your lawn looking healthy and green throughout the wet winter season. And it can undo a summer’s worth of damage from the Slip-and-Slide.

Plan for next year: After your yard is cleaned up, you’ll have space to dream about what you’d like to do with it next year. Put in a rose garden. Add a play structure. Invest in a hot tub. Construct a retaining wall. Whatever you’d like to do, Fazzolari Custom Homes can help you achieve your dream garden. Need a little inspiration? Join us at the Portland Fall Home & Garden Show where you’ll find a world of ideas.

Living in the Pacific Northwest, the major thing we have to contend with is moisture. While rain isn’t going to hurt your deck, standing water can, as can water that is allowed to seep into wood which has not, for whatever reason, been completely sealed or waterproofed. Those living on the coast often have salt spray to contend with, while those living east of the Cascades may experience damage to their deck from the sun’s rays, although sunshine usually causes far fewer problems than moisture. Here are some things you can do, no matter what type of deck you have, or where you live, that can help keep it in tip-top shape.

1. Inspect the Surface - Deck inspection can for the most part be an ongoing thing, even though we tend not to recognize problems that develop slowly. A loose board can be just that, something to be tightened back down. If it’s not tightened down, or becomes loose again, a real problem could be in the making. Stains have a way of becoming permanent, and bubbles or chips of loose paint rarely fix themselves. You don’t have to have a full-blown inspection every week, annually will probably do, but make it a good one. Check for loose nails or loose boards, stains, grease spots if you have a grill or outdoor kitchen on the deck, fading or flaking paint, and any sign of mildew or rot. If you have a stained surface, use a garden hose, or wait for a rainy day and see if water still beads up on the deck surface or has begin to sink into the wood. When wetting the deck down, note if there are places where water tends to stand. Standing water could indicate need to install a new plank, or simply serve as a reminder to sweep away water the when it accumulates.

2. Inspect the Structure - Besides checking on the condition of the deck’s surface, check fasteners, such as nails and screws, and the condition of planks where they abut and moisture may tend to accumulate or sit. Look between the planks as well. In the Northwest, fir needles will fall on a deck’s surface, eventually finding their way into cracks between the planks. This is especially true for the nice home that’s situated in a woodsy Northwest setting. Here they accumulate, especially where the planks are sitting atop joists. Moisture, trapped by the needles, can cause rot to set in at the junction of plank and joist, and in the planks as well if they’re untreated. If you have a deck with a painted or stained surface, the sides of the planks are most often untreated, and therefore subject to moisture-induced rot. If you find a loose nail, it’s best to replace it, either with a deck nail or a screw. Pounding it back in seldom works. Screws seldom work their way out, but if a plank is loose where it’s been screwed down, you’d better check for rot.

3. Cleaning a Wood Deck - Normally you’ll inspect your deck before cleaning it, but it won’t hurt to give it a quick check after it’s been cleaned to see if you’ve missed something. The first thing you’ll want to do is get all the needles or other debris out from between the planks or anywhere else they’ve accumulated. If you’re going to apply a sealant, you don’t want to be sealing in debris and the moisture than goes with it. Use a garden hose or power washer to clean out between the planks and other hard to get at areas. In some instances, a thin blade, such as a putty knife, may come in handy. To clean the surface you can either use a strong TSP solution, or a commercial deck cleaner. When using the latter, always read the directions to make certain you have the right product. Bleach can also be used, especially if you’re planning on repainting or staining. Whatever cleaning solution you choose, even if it’s just a detergent, cover anything under the deck that needs to be covered, like plants or lawn furniture. If you elect to use a power sprayer, keep the stream wide so as not to “dig” a pattern into the surface, or tear off a piece of wood should you hit a crack.

4. Cleaning a Composite Deck - Despite their well-deserved reputation for being low-maintenance, composite decks are seldom maintenance free. While dirt and debris usually wash away easily with plain water, a commercial cleaner will usually be needed to get rid of stains, especially mildew stains. When possible, first check with the manufacturer of the decking material. They’ll be happy to provide cleaning tips and advise you as to which commercial cleaners are most appropriate. When using a deck cleaner, the usual procedure is to spray it on (you can use a cheap hand pumped sprayer), let it sit for about 20 minutes, then wash it off with a garden hose. Mildew stains and ground in dirt usually disappear with this treatment. Composite decks in general should never be sanded to remove a spot or stain, and caution should be taken in using a power sprayer. Either method could break up the fibers on the surface, further encouraging mildew or the accumulation of grime.

5. Cleaning A Cedar Or Redwood Deck - Cleaning a cedar or redwood deck is similar to cleaning a composite deck in many respects. Cedar and redwood, and most treated woods, are decay resistant, and also have less of a tendency to harbor mildew, although in areas receiving heavy moisture, mildew can still be a problem. Power washing is not recommended on cedar decks, as being a soft wood the cedar could too easily be damaged. There are special cleaners on the market for cedar decking and it is also a good idea to apply a brightener after the deck has dried to restore the natural look of the wood.

6. Proper Use Of The Power Sprayer - We’ve touched upon using a power sprayer when cleaning a deck, an admitted time saver. It’s well worth reiterating however, that unless you plan to repaint the surface, using a narrow, high-pressure stream of water is not always a good idea, as it can gouge wood surfaces to a degree even paint can’t hide, and can destroy the surface integrity of composite decking. It’s best to use a 2′ or 3′ wide stream, holding the nozzle about 2′ above the surface of the deck, and swinging the nozzle back and forth like a pendulum. Tough stains should be left to be taken care of with a deck cleansing solution, rather than attempting to power spray them away.

7. When Not To Use Sandpaper - Wood decks on occasion need to refinished and in the process sanded, and spot sanding may sometimes be in order as well. Sandpaper should not be used on a composite deck however, unless the manufacturer’s specification dictates otherwise. Sanding a composite deck can destroy the integrity of the surface, which otherwise tends to be impervious to moisture or grime.

8. Using A Sealant - Choosing a deck sealer is a little like choosing a political party. Some will agree with your choice while others will strongly disagree. Do a splash test to see if you even need a sealer. If water splashed on a stained deck forms beads, you may not need a sealer. Here in the Northwest, it’s advisable to apply a sealer at least every other year, and in some cases annually.

9. Repainting Or Staining - Once you’ve cleaned your deck, and perhaps used a deck brightener as well, you can usually tell if staining or painting is in order. The important thing is to make certain that your deck is squeaky clean first, and this is another place where the splash test comes in handy, especially if you have a barbecue grill or any other cooking equipment on your deck. The splash test will tell you if there is any grease on the surface or embedded in the decking. If so, it needs to be removed so your new finish can adhere.

10. Make Deck Maintenance An Annual Thing - Deck maintenance is something that is too easily put off, until next month, until the fall, or until next spring. Before you know it, 3 or 4 years have gone by, and an afternoon’s work has suddenly become something much bigger, and possibly much more expensive. This is once occasion where taking the time to make a careful and thorough inspection of your deck will pay big dividends in the long run.

As we always say, if you have any questions about decks feel free to call Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations at 360-571-7027 or fill out our form for a free consultation.

This elegant outdoor covered patio and kitchen is perfect for entertaining in all weather. Even if you're not going all-out on your design, your outdoor kitchen can be just as functional.

In planning for an outdoor kitchen when you live in the Northwest, the first thing that usually comes to mind is the weather, specifically rain. Don’t let that stop you. In other parts of the country, folks have to put up with wind, dust, pollution, temperatures that restrict outdoor eating and entertaining to the evening hours, and even tornadoes. So these considerations count for all of us. In the Northwest we’re really quite fortunate. The months when it’s the coldest we usually don’t consider eating out of doors anyway, and as far the rest of the year is concerned, protecting the kitchen and the guests usually isn’t all that difficult.

1. Don’t Let Worry Stop You Before You Start – If you don’t heed this piece of advice, you needn’t read further. Just consider the fact that there are going to be more than enough days of great or at least decent weather where you and your guests can truly enjoy all an outdoor kitchen has to offer.

2. Location – This recently was an issue of mine since my main grill and outdoor eating space is on a different floor than the kitchen. Honestly, I get tired of running up and down the stairs to the kitchen when I forget something. Try to keep your outdoor kitchen close to house and as close as possible to the main kitchen or be prepared to do a lot of walking while you cook.

3. Shade And Cover - Shade and cover doesn’t need to be permanent, if it were you wouldn’t really feel you were out of doors, and you don’t want to place your kitchen and guest seating in a tent. Screens or tarps, umbrellas, or any other type of portable covering needs to be part of your design. If things get bad enough, everyone can move inside, but that will probably happen much less often than you would expect. Umbrellas are particularly important, as most people don’t like sitting and eating under a hot sun any more than in a driving rain. Even here in the Northwest the outdoor eating season can be prolonged with well-placed cover, some heaters and a good sweater!

4. Create Visual Interest – Make your outdoor kitchen a part of the overall area. It can be more than a grill on a patio with a table and chairs facing the grill. Think of the parts of your kitchen, stove, grill, bar, fireplace, whatever, as parts of the landscape, pieces that should fit into the landscape. The truly excellent outdoor kitchen is not only functional, but aesthetically pleasing, a place you and your guests will want to spend some time. Since some, and possibly most of your entertaining will be in the evening, make lighting a top priority, be it strategically placed pathway lights, strings of lights, or tiki torches. The challenge is to provide enough lighting, but not too much. Don’t forget candles, or if impractical, hurricane lamps. Do a little “exterior” decorating.

5. Don’t Forget The Music – Make a sound system a part of your outdoor kitchen design. When we think of kitchens, we don’t usually consider music, but an outdoor kitchen is a place for entertaining, unless you expect everyone will go inside once they’re done eating. You may very well want to have a dancing area in your “kitchen”. Nothing wrong with that.

6. Where Do We Sit? – If you place the seating with everyone facing the grill or fireplace, as many designs dictate, you needn’t worry too much about the overall appearance of the surroundings. The grill has become the alter, and the guests are more or less forced to pay homage to it, and to watching you cook dinner. A good outdoor kitchen design doesn’t have to spotlight the grill, or the fireplace, or the bar. In fact its better it they are slightly off to one side. Let the guests see the back yard, the surrounding scenery if it’s spectacular, or the lawn, garden, or container plants. Living in the Northwest means there is plenty of greenery to look at and on the best days, deep blue skies. Arrange the seating so the guests can look at one another, not just the stove, grill, or bar.

7. How Do We Sit? – Even if your seating arrangements are integrated into the overall design of the kitchen, considerations of comfort should override those of appearance. Sitting on a stone bench isn’t as comfortable as sitting in a folding chair, though you may not care for the latter. When designing your kitchen, the comfort of your guests is as important as are the bells and whistles your grill or other appliances may feature.

8. What Do I Plan To Cook? – If you’re a professional chef, or even a fairly good amateur one, the sky’s the limit as far as the features you may desire your kitchen to have. If hot dogs or grilled finger food is about as far as you want to go, you probably don’t need a $50,000 kitchen except to impress. Granted, an outdoor grill by itself can’t really be considered a kitchen, but the money spent can go into seating, decoration, and landscaping if you really don’t need a top of the line grill, stove, refrigerator, sink, or portable bar. Put another way, if you plan on spending a considerable amount on your outdoor kitchen, learn to cook or hire someone else to do it.

9. How Much To Spend? – Assuming the sky is not the limit, you’re probably not going to want to spend more than you feel you have to. Even if your not going to be doing much more than using a grill, get a good one. If your design calls for a built in grill this is even more important, as although this can be a high-ticket item, it can cost even more have it replaced or repaired, which will likely happen eventually. Even if you save money by using a portable grill, it’s still important to get the best one you think you can afford. Even though the good old Weber that sits on three legs is practically as American as apple pie, you’ll want something larger and nicer appearing, especially if your design is to resemble an outdoor kitchen in any sense of the word.

10. Getting it Done – If you have the time and are willing to accept the challenge, you can manage some or all of the construction yourself. However, in some circumstances you’ll need to be careful. Just like building a home, designing and installing an outdoor kitchen takes planning and preparation. An experienced licensed contractor (like us!) has the skills and tips to make your vision come to life with a minimal number of “oops” moments.

11. Maintenance – This is the least exciting of the tips offered here, but nevertheless important. When you design your kitchen you need to design it with maintenance in mind. It is out of doors after all, and in spite of your most heroic efforts, things are going to get wet and sometimes dirty. This includes not only the appliances but everything else. Stone or ceramic you don’t have to worry too much about, but you’ll have plastics, fabrics, and painted surfaces that have to either be protected or cleaned up and dried out later. Even stainless steel can take a beating over time. It can mean a lot of work if you allow things to get out of hand. You want to plan for an outdoor kitchen that requires a minimum amount of maintenance knowing full well there are maintenance chores that will need to be done. Don’t let yourself become a slave to your kitchen.

If you’re interested in building an outdoor kitchen and live in the Portland, Oregon, or Vancouver, Washington, areas feel free to give Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations a call at 360-571-7027 or fill out our free consultation form and we’ll follow up with you right away.

Is $50 per square foot a good deal on installed granite countertops?

The short answer, of course, is yes. But I would be wary of a $50 installed price for granite. In some instances I’ve seen people buy a slab for more than $50 per square foot and have the installation cost just as much as the material, so it ends up costing them $100 per square foot. The ads I’ve seen for this price nearly always include only the stone, and usually only the more budget pieces. But you can usually find nice stone options in the “standard” materials.

This granite is not an inexpensive piece and the finish and installation work on it is top of the line.

So you really need to MAKE SURE the low price includes all fabrication, setting of the granite, any bull nose edges AND sink cutouts.

There are other costs that can creep up on you: Is the slab 2 cm or 3 cm? If it’s 2cm then will the installers build up the edges to make them appear thicker? Find out if they also provide a backsplash or if you have to do that with tile. (I have gotten quotes without the backsplash and then asked them to “throw it in” to close the deal – after all, they already have the material.) If you do a backsplash in granite make sure it is at least 6 inches tall rather than a standard 3-4 inches. The taller profile makes it look much nicer. Also, see if you will need to move electrical outlets to accommodate the backsplash … another cost.

Is it worth it to install them?

Now the next question – is it worth it? What is the total cost? A few thousand dollars? Do other properties that are for sale in your neighborhood have granite? If so, you may want to do it just to compete and if not you may or may not get your investment back but you may provide the incentive that helps your home sell quicker. If you have a real estate agent they may be able to help assess this but I would say at $50 per square foot, if that is truly the installed price, it will not hurt you much and it could help you. If you currently have Formica or worn tile, the granite will really upgrade the look. Heck, install them and bump the price $5k and know that you have negotiating room.

Learning more about granite and other materials

If you’re interested in redoing your countertops, we recently wrote a pretty lengthy article comparing granite, quartz, and soapstone countertops. It’s a great starting point if you’re trying to make some decisions.

If the time has come to replace your hot water system, you may be asking yourself “just how much hot water do we really need?” We’ve created this blog post to help you determine your water usage, so you can make an informed decision concerning your hot water heater and where you might be able to save.

Check your water bill

Each period, the water company reads your usage meter and charges you accordingly. To find your daily water consumption, divide the number of gallons on your bill by the number of days between readings. This should give you a general idea of your daily consumption.

Determine your First Hour Rating (FHR)

Your First Hour Rating (FHR) is a necessity when determining the appropriate size of hot water heater you need for your home. By calculating how many gallons of water you use during the peak hour of consumption in your home, you will know the largest size of heater you need.

For example, if during your home’s peak usage time, your family takes 3 showers (at 20 gallons of water each) and you run the automatic dishwasher (at 10 gallons), your FHR would be 70 gallons.

Check out these FHR calculators if you need help adding up your home’s FHR.

Take a Good Look

Now that you know your FHR, you may be motivated to know just how much water your family is using in total. Are your thrifty ways adding money to your pocket and life to the planet? Or are you watching your savings go down the drain?

H2O Conserve has created a step-by-step water calculator that helps you determine your home’s total water usage. It only takes a few minutes and can be the key to enlightenment – well at least water enlightenment. The site also showcases several water saving tips that range from pricey fixes to free ones.

The more informed you are as a consumer, the better decisions you’ll make. And that translates into years of cost savings and hot showers.

When the alarm blasts you awake at 5:30 or 6:00 am and you stumble head first into an icy cold shower, it’s probably time to consider replacing your home’s hot water heater.

And when there’s a lake in your basement or garage that is fed by a waterfall from your heater tank, it’s probably time to consider replacing your home’s hot water heater.

But these are not ideal times to address your plumbing needs. So, aside from a full on catastrophe, when should homeowners contemplate replacing and upgrading their hot water system? Here are a few indicators that now might be the time.

Varying Temperatures

Water temperature variance can be an indication of an aging water heater. Is the water not as hot as it used to be? Does the water get hot enough for the dishwasher? If not, check the tank’s thermostat. If a low thermostat temperature is not the culprit, it may be time for a new tank.

Not Enough Hot Stuff

Do you have only enough hot water for one steamy shower, leaving the rest of your family dashing in and out of luke warm or cold water? This is a good sign that it may be time to talk with a professional.

Leaks

If your water tank has ruptured creating a leak (or a lake), it is definitely time to consider your options. Do-it-yourselfers can attempt to diagnose and repair the leak or you can call a professional. Depending on the age and state-of repair, it may be more cost effective in the long run to replace the entire tank.

Rusty Water

A gush of rust colored water when you open the hot water faucet is a major indicator of an aging hot water heater. Most often, this rusty water is caused by years of sediment that have been deposited in your tank. When you turn on the hot water, the sediment is stirred up and comes out as a rusty, dirty, smelly gush. Draining and flushing sometimes help the situation, but when that doesn’t work, it is time to replace.

Old Age

Unlike fine wines and cheese and women, hot water heaters do not improve with age. Over time, the heaters can corrode, leak, fill with gunk, and just plain break down. Most conventional hot water heaters last between 10 and 15 years. If your’s is older and you are experiencing problems, you should consider finding a replacement.

Replacement

Don’t forget when replacing a hot water to have the removal and disposal of the old heater and installation of the new one completed by a licensed contractor. Sediment build-up in the old heater can make them very heavy and they’ll either have electric or gas connections that will need to be modified.

Rebates and Tax Incentives

Be sure to check our Southwest Washington Energy Tax Rebates and Incentives and Oregon Energy Tax Rebates and Incentives pages for available rebates and incentives for upgrading to energy efficient water heaters.

Our next article will give you ideas to determine how much water you use and what type or size of water heater you need.

• Grass - Check for areas in lawn that need to be seeded and patched. Each Spring I overseed my lawn with new grass seed, cover with a light topping of mulch or peat moss, and fertilize. The new bright green grass will really give your lawn a boost, and best of all the thick lawn will keep the weeds at bay.
• Weeds - Speaking of weeds, pull ‘em now. And if they are in the lawn try pulling them by hand, not with a weed-killing chemical. I sometimes use a screwdriver or one of those weed popping devices you see on TV. Yeah, it actually works. Best of all, if you show the kids how to use it, they think it is cool and fun, for at least a minute or two.
• Fertilizer - If you didn’t do it in March, be sure to fertilize your plants. Triple sixteen (16/16/16) generic fertilizer is a great all-purpose fertilizer, and it sure helps remove the clutter from the garage. How many of you have 10 bags of different fertilizers half full? Just use the triple 16 from now on and simplify your life. For plants and grass!
• Windows - Wash the inside of your windows. Save the outside for better weather.
• HVAC - Change filters on your heater/heat pump. Have your heating and cooling system serviced. Check back in a week or two…we plan on giving away a free maintenance service to a Facebook friend in the Portland/Vancouver area.
• Exterior Paint - Thinking of painting the exterior of your home? Give us a call. While not widely publicized, we do exterior home painting in-house and offer a 7-year warranty. Yes, 7 years. No one else offers that.
• Fire Extinguisher - Do you have a fire extinguisher in your home? Do you know where it is? Has it been checked in the last few years for proper operation. Now is the time to do that. And if you don’t have one (or a few), consider getting one for each floor of the home and the garage. And of course make sure everyone knows where they are.
• Pressure Washing - My only recommendation here is be careful! Most people do more damage than good, so consider skipping the pressure washing altogether. Do you really need a perfectly clean sidewalk? Remember when you were a kid? Dad didn’t have a pressure washer, the sidewalk looked fine, and probably lasted longer because he wasn’t shooting high pressure water into it. Consider saving yourself time and money in the long run and skipping the pressure washing this year. But if you decide to get out the pressure washer, back off a little this year. And if you are using it to clean wood, siding or roofing, think about the fact that if you over do it you are applying water to your home in places that were designed to keep water out – but they were not designed to keep it out at a force of over 1,500 PSI! That’s it, I will get off my pressure washer soapbox.

Happy home maintaining. If you have any questions please contact us – we’d be happy to answer them.

January Monthly Household Checklist
February Monthly Household Checklist

March Monthly Household Checklist

Source: Clark County PUD Water Irrigation Safety brochure

What is backflow?
You can read all about what backflow is from this site or download this Clark PUD Irrigation Safety brochure to learn all about backflow. The bottom line is backflow happens to an irrigation system such as lawn sprinklers when the water is siphoned back into the drinking water supply, taking with it all sorts of contaminants such as fertilizers and poisons.

Do I really need this tested?
I’m often against rampant bureaucracy and the types of hidden fees and taxes that crop up everywhere these days, but for this I can make an exception. First, it’s a Washington state law. Second, I’m not alone in thinking we have among the most beautiful areas of the country right outside our doors here and we can thank a healthy water supply for it. Contaminating our water supply is not something we want to do.

I have a sprinkler system but I don’t get a letter, do I need to get tested?
Since I’m a licensed contractor, everything I do or install needs to have permits and sprinkler systems are no exception. If you installed a sprinkler system or had one installed without a permit then the state does not know it exists. You can, of course, keep it this way and avoid the annual $40-$50 to have your backflow tested. You may never have a problem. But if you didn’t install a backflow prevention device or, if you do have an incident, you are risking contaminating your drinking water supply. I feel it’s worth it to pay the extra money for the inspection. If you feel the same click on one of the links below to find and hire a backflow tester. Your system will be on “the list,” but it’s a small price to pay for the quality of life we have here.

One type of device that does not need to be tested.

The atmospheric vacuum breaker (AVB) is one assembly that does not need to be tested annually, according to Washington state law. This type sticks above the ground and can be an eyesore on residential properties but one person commented on our Facebook fan page that you can hide it behind a bush.

Finding a certified backflow tester

• State –  Washington State Certified Backflow Assembly Tester
• Vancouver/Clark County - List of Vancouver certified backflow testers
• Incidents - If you ever have a problem with backflow at your property, the Washington State Department of Health has a Backflow Incident Report Form you can fill out.

March is the month where you lay the groundwork for the many days of yard work that lay ahead. But it’s gotta be done if you expect any guilt-free backyard family time.

• Keep working on the home repair list you made in January – if you’re not done maybe you should hire someone to finish it (such as Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations).
• Test your smoke alarms - If you do not have one consider a CO2 monitor. Also remember if you have kids (and even if you don’t), make an escape plan in case of an emergency. Know how to exit the home safely and quickly, where to meet, and be sure to practice! Our local fire department has plenty of information to assist you with this.
• Spruce up beds and edging - and pull any weeds you see starting immediately. I walk through the yard each weekend and just pull them as I see ‘em. If you don’t they’ll be sprouting offspring soon and then you’ll get behind!
• Fertilize the yard - Here in the Pacific Northwest March means a return to growing grass. Fertilizing now can help your yard recover from the terrors of winter and green it up before your neighbors know what hit ‘em! If you want to keep it simple, which I prefer, consider using a fertilizer that is labeled 16-16-16, or as we call it “triple sixteen”. You can use it for the lawn and the plants…and DON’T FORGET THE PLANTS!
• Fill up and start the mower if you haven’t already - Before you stowed the mower in the garage for the winter you drained the gas tank, cleaned it, and sharpened the blade, right? Now all you have to do is fill it up, give it a few extra seconds to start and off you go! If it does not start, check the plug – it might need to be gapped or replaced.
• Check your house foundation - Make sure that you do not have soil or other materials up against the siding on the house, unless you LIKE water damage. We suggest keeping the soil at least 6 inches below the siding with the soil sloping away from the home. This is especially critical in new homes as the soil around the foundation of the home will often settle after a season and slope toward the foundation.
• Test your water pressure - In our area they no longer provide pressure reducing valves (PRV’s) at the water meter, so as new supply and new homes come on line the water pressure on your home may change…and often it increases. The ideal range is between 60 and 75 PSI, and we always install a PRV on anything over 85PSI. Not doing so could result in plumbing failures that are not good for the home…but have provided me plenty of work this winter.
• Clean your air conditioner or heat pump - To make sure it is working at peak performance be sure to clean the A/C unit of all leaves and debris that may have accumulated over the winter.
• Inspect trees for broken branches - If the limb is high up, hire a licensed arborist. If you can reach it from the ground, take it down using the three-cut technique, which prevents bark from tearing and creating an open wound on the trunk:

1. 1. Make the first cut 1 to 2 feet from the branch collar, sawing a quarter way through the bottom of the branch.
   2. Make the second cut 3 inches farther out from the first, sawing all the way through the branch.
   3. Make the final cut just beyond the branch collar, sawing from the top down.

January Monthly Household Checklist
February Monthly Household Checklist