Living in the Pacific Northwest, the major thing we have to contend with is moisture. While rain isn’t going to hurt your deck, standing water can, as can water that is allowed to seep into wood which has not, for whatever reason, been completely sealed or waterproofed. Those living on the coast often have salt spray to contend with, while those living east of the Cascades may experience damage to their deck from the sun’s rays, although sunshine usually causes far fewer problems than moisture. Here are some things you can do, no matter what type of deck you have, or where you live, that can help keep it in tip-top shape.

1. Inspect the Surface - Deck inspection can for the most part be an ongoing thing, even though we tend not to recognize problems that develop slowly. A loose board can be just that, something to be tightened back down. If it’s not tightened down, or becomes loose again, a real problem could be in the making. Stains have a way of becoming permanent, and bubbles or chips of loose paint rarely fix themselves. You don’t have to have a full-blown inspection every week, annually will probably do, but make it a good one. Check for loose nails or loose boards, stains, grease spots if you have a grill or outdoor kitchen on the deck, fading or flaking paint, and any sign of mildew or rot. If you have a stained surface, use a garden hose, or wait for a rainy day and see if water still beads up on the deck surface or has begin to sink into the wood. When wetting the deck down, note if there are places where water tends to stand. Standing water could indicate need to install a new plank, or simply serve as a reminder to sweep away water the when it accumulates.

2. Inspect the Structure - Besides checking on the condition of the deck’s surface, check fasteners, such as nails and screws, and the condition of planks where they abut and moisture may tend to accumulate or sit. Look between the planks as well. In the Northwest, fir needles will fall on a deck’s surface, eventually finding their way into cracks between the planks. This is especially true for the nice home that’s situated in a woodsy Northwest setting. Here they accumulate, especially where the planks are sitting atop joists. Moisture, trapped by the needles, can cause rot to set in at the junction of plank and joist, and in the planks as well if they’re untreated. If you have a deck with a painted or stained surface, the sides of the planks are most often untreated, and therefore subject to moisture-induced rot. If you find a loose nail, it’s best to replace it, either with a deck nail or a screw. Pounding it back in seldom works. Screws seldom work their way out, but if a plank is loose where it’s been screwed down, you’d better check for rot.

3. Cleaning a Wood Deck - Normally you’ll inspect your deck before cleaning it, but it won’t hurt to give it a quick check after it’s been cleaned to see if you’ve missed something. The first thing you’ll want to do is get all the needles or other debris out from between the planks or anywhere else they’ve accumulated. If you’re going to apply a sealant, you don’t want to be sealing in debris and the moisture than goes with it. Use a garden hose or power washer to clean out between the planks and other hard to get at areas. In some instances, a thin blade, such as a putty knife, may come in handy. To clean the surface you can either use a strong TSP solution, or a commercial deck cleaner. When using the latter, always read the directions to make certain you have the right product. Bleach can also be used, especially if you’re planning on repainting or staining. Whatever cleaning solution you choose, even if it’s just a detergent, cover anything under the deck that needs to be covered, like plants or lawn furniture. If you elect to use a power sprayer, keep the stream wide so as not to “dig” a pattern into the surface, or tear off a piece of wood should you hit a crack.

4. Cleaning a Composite Deck - Despite their well-deserved reputation for being low-maintenance, composite decks are seldom maintenance free. While dirt and debris usually wash away easily with plain water, a commercial cleaner will usually be needed to get rid of stains, especially mildew stains. When possible, first check with the manufacturer of the decking material. They’ll be happy to provide cleaning tips and advise you as to which commercial cleaners are most appropriate. When using a deck cleaner, the usual procedure is to spray it on (you can use a cheap hand pumped sprayer), let it sit for about 20 minutes, then wash it off with a garden hose. Mildew stains and ground in dirt usually disappear with this treatment. Composite decks in general should never be sanded to remove a spot or stain, and caution should be taken in using a power sprayer. Either method could break up the fibers on the surface, further encouraging mildew or the accumulation of grime.

5. Cleaning A Cedar Or Redwood Deck - Cleaning a cedar or redwood deck is similar to cleaning a composite deck in many respects. Cedar and redwood, and most treated woods, are decay resistant, and also have less of a tendency to harbor mildew, although in areas receiving heavy moisture, mildew can still be a problem. Power washing is not recommended on cedar decks, as being a soft wood the cedar could too easily be damaged. There are special cleaners on the market for cedar decking and it is also a good idea to apply a brightener after the deck has dried to restore the natural look of the wood.

6. Proper Use Of The Power Sprayer - We’ve touched upon using a power sprayer when cleaning a deck, an admitted time saver. It’s well worth reiterating however, that unless you plan to repaint the surface, using a narrow, high-pressure stream of water is not always a good idea, as it can gouge wood surfaces to a degree even paint can’t hide, and can destroy the surface integrity of composite decking. It’s best to use a 2′ or 3′ wide stream, holding the nozzle about 2′ above the surface of the deck, and swinging the nozzle back and forth like a pendulum. Tough stains should be left to be taken care of with a deck cleansing solution, rather than attempting to power spray them away.

7. When Not To Use Sandpaper - Wood decks on occasion need to refinished and in the process sanded, and spot sanding may sometimes be in order as well. Sandpaper should not be used on a composite deck however, unless the manufacturer’s specification dictates otherwise. Sanding a composite deck can destroy the integrity of the surface, which otherwise tends to be impervious to moisture or grime.

8. Using A Sealant - Choosing a deck sealer is a little like choosing a political party. Some will agree with your choice while others will strongly disagree. Do a splash test to see if you even need a sealer. If water splashed on a stained deck forms beads, you may not need a sealer. Here in the Northwest, it’s advisable to apply a sealer at least every other year, and in some cases annually.

9. Repainting Or Staining - Once you’ve cleaned your deck, and perhaps used a deck brightener as well, you can usually tell if staining or painting is in order. The important thing is to make certain that your deck is squeaky clean first, and this is another place where the splash test comes in handy, especially if you have a barbecue grill or any other cooking equipment on your deck. The splash test will tell you if there is any grease on the surface or embedded in the decking. If so, it needs to be removed so your new finish can adhere.

10. Make Deck Maintenance An Annual Thing - Deck maintenance is something that is too easily put off, until next month, until the fall, or until next spring. Before you know it, 3 or 4 years have gone by, and an afternoon’s work has suddenly become something much bigger, and possibly much more expensive. This is once occasion where taking the time to make a careful and thorough inspection of your deck will pay big dividends in the long run.

As we always say, if you have any questions about decks feel free to call Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations at 360-571-7027 or fill out our form for a free consultation.

This elegant outdoor covered patio and kitchen is perfect for entertaining in all weather. Even if you're not going all-out on your design, your outdoor kitchen can be just as functional.

In planning for an outdoor kitchen when you live in the Northwest, the first thing that usually comes to mind is the weather, specifically rain. Don’t let that stop you. In other parts of the country, folks have to put up with wind, dust, pollution, temperatures that restrict outdoor eating and entertaining to the evening hours, and even tornadoes. So these considerations count for all of us. In the Northwest we’re really quite fortunate. The months when it’s the coldest we usually don’t consider eating out of doors anyway, and as far the rest of the year is concerned, protecting the kitchen and the guests usually isn’t all that difficult.

1. Don’t Let Worry Stop You Before You Start – If you don’t heed this piece of advice, you needn’t read further. Just consider the fact that there are going to be more than enough days of great or at least decent weather where you and your guests can truly enjoy all an outdoor kitchen has to offer.

2. Location – This recently was an issue of mine since my main grill and outdoor eating space is on a different floor than the kitchen. Honestly, I get tired of running up and down the stairs to the kitchen when I forget something. Try to keep your outdoor kitchen close to house and as close as possible to the main kitchen or be prepared to do a lot of walking while you cook.

3. Shade And Cover - Shade and cover doesn’t need to be permanent, if it were you wouldn’t really feel you were out of doors, and you don’t want to place your kitchen and guest seating in a tent. Screens or tarps, umbrellas, or any other type of portable covering needs to be part of your design. If things get bad enough, everyone can move inside, but that will probably happen much less often than you would expect. Umbrellas are particularly important, as most people don’t like sitting and eating under a hot sun any more than in a driving rain. Even here in the Northwest the outdoor eating season can be prolonged with well-placed cover, some heaters and a good sweater!

4. Create Visual Interest – Make your outdoor kitchen a part of the overall area. It can be more than a grill on a patio with a table and chairs facing the grill. Think of the parts of your kitchen, stove, grill, bar, fireplace, whatever, as parts of the landscape, pieces that should fit into the landscape. The truly excellent outdoor kitchen is not only functional, but aesthetically pleasing, a place you and your guests will want to spend some time. Since some, and possibly most of your entertaining will be in the evening, make lighting a top priority, be it strategically placed pathway lights, strings of lights, or tiki torches. The challenge is to provide enough lighting, but not too much. Don’t forget candles, or if impractical, hurricane lamps. Do a little “exterior” decorating.

5. Don’t Forget The Music – Make a sound system a part of your outdoor kitchen design. When we think of kitchens, we don’t usually consider music, but an outdoor kitchen is a place for entertaining, unless you expect everyone will go inside once they’re done eating. You may very well want to have a dancing area in your “kitchen”. Nothing wrong with that.

6. Where Do We Sit? – If you place the seating with everyone facing the grill or fireplace, as many designs dictate, you needn’t worry too much about the overall appearance of the surroundings. The grill has become the alter, and the guests are more or less forced to pay homage to it, and to watching you cook dinner. A good outdoor kitchen design doesn’t have to spotlight the grill, or the fireplace, or the bar. In fact its better it they are slightly off to one side. Let the guests see the back yard, the surrounding scenery if it’s spectacular, or the lawn, garden, or container plants. Living in the Northwest means there is plenty of greenery to look at and on the best days, deep blue skies. Arrange the seating so the guests can look at one another, not just the stove, grill, or bar.

7. How Do We Sit? – Even if your seating arrangements are integrated into the overall design of the kitchen, considerations of comfort should override those of appearance. Sitting on a stone bench isn’t as comfortable as sitting in a folding chair, though you may not care for the latter. When designing your kitchen, the comfort of your guests is as important as are the bells and whistles your grill or other appliances may feature.

8. What Do I Plan To Cook? – If you’re a professional chef, or even a fairly good amateur one, the sky’s the limit as far as the features you may desire your kitchen to have. If hot dogs or grilled finger food is about as far as you want to go, you probably don’t need a $50,000 kitchen except to impress. Granted, an outdoor grill by itself can’t really be considered a kitchen, but the money spent can go into seating, decoration, and landscaping if you really don’t need a top of the line grill, stove, refrigerator, sink, or portable bar. Put another way, if you plan on spending a considerable amount on your outdoor kitchen, learn to cook or hire someone else to do it.

9. How Much To Spend? – Assuming the sky is not the limit, you’re probably not going to want to spend more than you feel you have to. Even if your not going to be doing much more than using a grill, get a good one. If your design calls for a built in grill this is even more important, as although this can be a high-ticket item, it can cost even more have it replaced or repaired, which will likely happen eventually. Even if you save money by using a portable grill, it’s still important to get the best one you think you can afford. Even though the good old Weber that sits on three legs is practically as American as apple pie, you’ll want something larger and nicer appearing, especially if your design is to resemble an outdoor kitchen in any sense of the word.

10. Getting it Done – If you have the time and are willing to accept the challenge, you can manage some or all of the construction yourself. However, in some circumstances you’ll need to be careful. Just like building a home, designing and installing an outdoor kitchen takes planning and preparation. An experienced licensed contractor (like us!) has the skills and tips to make your vision come to life with a minimal number of “oops” moments.

11. Maintenance – This is the least exciting of the tips offered here, but nevertheless important. When you design your kitchen you need to design it with maintenance in mind. It is out of doors after all, and in spite of your most heroic efforts, things are going to get wet and sometimes dirty. This includes not only the appliances but everything else. Stone or ceramic you don’t have to worry too much about, but you’ll have plastics, fabrics, and painted surfaces that have to either be protected or cleaned up and dried out later. Even stainless steel can take a beating over time. It can mean a lot of work if you allow things to get out of hand. You want to plan for an outdoor kitchen that requires a minimum amount of maintenance knowing full well there are maintenance chores that will need to be done. Don’t let yourself become a slave to your kitchen.

If you’re interested in building an outdoor kitchen and live in the Portland, Oregon, or Vancouver, Washington, areas feel free to give Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations a call at 360-571-7027 or fill out our free consultation form and we’ll follow up with you right away.

A play structure has the advantage of not only giving the children a variety of activities, but allows their imaginations to run wild. A fort is always a fun place to hide in, protect, or try to capture. Climbing walls, vines or ropes help a child develop strength and coordination.

You can purchase a play structure as is, in about any size you wish, or in some instances take advantage of combo play structures, where you can join together two or more separate units.

We thought with summer finally here in the Pacific Northwest we would treat you to a set of great play structures, some for older kids, some for toddlers – bearing in mind that even a small play structure can seem pretty awesome to a toddler.

We’ll start with a play house we built for the 2005 Parade of Homes. One of my friends and neighbors liked it enough to bid on it once the show was over. As you can see, copper gutters and a built-in loft put this play house in the awesome category, though I think kids are generally happy with just about anything as long as it doesn’t have a bunch of spiders in it.

The CAD drawing below gives a sample of what a large play structure can look like. This particular model, by Miracle Recreation, covers an area of approximately 60 feet by 70 feet, and has among other features, an observation deck, a lookout tower, several types of climbers, including vine climbers, a slide climber, slides, and horizontal runways. This would be great for your the kids, but at $55,000+ it’s probably best for the local school’s playground. This one, in fact, reminds me a little of the one at the Felida park here in Vancouver.

In selecting a play structure of course you’re not limited to just those shown in brochures, as many manufacturers or retailers build their systems on a modular basis, giving the purchaser a highly customized end product. Some of these play structures come partially assembled, or are put together on site by the retailer or a contractor like us. Many, if not most, could be assembled by the homeowner, barring any restrictions on doing so out of safety or warranty considerations. Most of your larger and truly awesome play structures have foundations embedded in concrete. Smaller versions, such as those shown below, and designed for toddlers or those of preschool age are bolted down and can be somewhat portable.

The above play structures, also by Miracle, run in the neighborhood of $2,000 to $5,000 with many models to choose from.

As the children grow, so do the needs for a larger play structure, eventually getting to a size where Mom and Dad can sneak out for some time on the swings or recapture their youth by going down a slide.

The two examples shown below, both by Backyard Adventures, are of a modular construction, and can take on almost any shape or size. There’s no real requirement to purchase a large multi-functional structure if building one up module by module over time would better suit your needs.

Backyard Adventures features a concept which they call their Adventure Bridge, a component used for tying one or more structures together, as shown in the picture on the right. The bridge itself can be a home to a ship’s wheel, a telescope station, or when 5 feet or higher, become a perfect support for a tire swing. It’s not hard to visualize that given several bridges and several play structure modules, one could easily put together a play structure of truly awesome dimensions.

The structure on the left has these features:

• A Tree house
• A Cabin
• A Lower Cottage (hidden from view)
• A Sun deck and Porch
• Lemonade Stand
• 2 – 14′ Rocket Slides and a 12′ Slide
• 12′ Rocket Slide
• 2 – Adventure Bridges, with Binoculars and a Ship’s wheel, and possibly a Tire Swing.

I installed a set from Backyard Adventures for my kids, and it’s weathered pretty well over the past few years, as you can see from the photo below. (We got ours at The Kids’ Backyard Store in Portland, but you can also get residential ones at places like Costco – where prices start about $1,200.) Like any other piece of playground equipment, some periodic maintenance is going to be needed, but for the most part these structures tend to be low maintenance. I spray mine with the hose once a year and that’s pretty much it. Basically, these structures are designed and manufactured with heavy use in mind. One should reasonably expect to have playground equipment of this type in use for many years, perhaps for more than one generation, without a need for any significant repairs or replacement of parts.

When you stop to think about it, a play structure combined with other standard children’s recreational toys such as bikes, basketball hoops, or trampolines, is a much better investment than a second or third TV set, albeit much more expensive.

Most of us lived in an era where the backyard swing or swing tire pretty much made up our play “structure” and we couldn’t even visualized anything like the play structures currently available unless we visited a large city park or an amusement park. In more recent times, playground items like the “Jungle Gym” kept our kids busy, and when they grew up, it was the trampoline and the sports court where they spent many hours.

When you consider purchasing a play structure, whether it be an all in one package or you choose to go the modular route, you might think this is one of those play things the kids will quickly outgrow, after which it will stand neglected in the back yard. That’s always a possibility of course but through some careful choices it’s possible to “design” a structure that the children will have fun with for a number of years, after which children of guests and your extended family, and even your children’s children can have their turn.

A play structure such as some of those currently on the market can make a wonderful baby sitter while the adults visit. If you have family or friends over for a barbecue, the young ones will not constantly be underfoot once they see what’s out in the back yard.

Here’s hoping you have a great summer!

Is $50 per square foot a good deal on installed granite countertops?

The short answer, of course, is yes. But I would be wary of a $50 installed price for granite. In some instances I’ve seen people buy a slab for more than $50 per square foot and have the installation cost just as much as the material, so it ends up costing them $100 per square foot. The ads I’ve seen for this price nearly always include only the stone, and usually only the more budget pieces. But you can usually find nice stone options in the “standard” materials.

This granite is not an inexpensive piece and the finish and installation work on it is top of the line.

So you really need to MAKE SURE the low price includes all fabrication, setting of the granite, any bull nose edges AND sink cutouts.

There are other costs that can creep up on you: Is the slab 2 cm or 3 cm? If it’s 2cm then will the installers build up the edges to make them appear thicker? Find out if they also provide a backsplash or if you have to do that with tile. (I have gotten quotes without the backsplash and then asked them to “throw it in” to close the deal – after all, they already have the material.) If you do a backsplash in granite make sure it is at least 6 inches tall rather than a standard 3-4 inches. The taller profile makes it look much nicer. Also, see if you will need to move electrical outlets to accommodate the backsplash … another cost.

Is it worth it to install them?

Now the next question – is it worth it? What is the total cost? A few thousand dollars? Do other properties that are for sale in your neighborhood have granite? If so, you may want to do it just to compete and if not you may or may not get your investment back but you may provide the incentive that helps your home sell quicker. If you have a real estate agent they may be able to help assess this but I would say at $50 per square foot, if that is truly the installed price, it will not hurt you much and it could help you. If you currently have Formica or worn tile, the granite will really upgrade the look. Heck, install them and bump the price $5k and know that you have negotiating room.

Learning more about granite and other materials

If you’re interested in redoing your countertops, we recently wrote a pretty lengthy article comparing granite, quartz, and soapstone countertops. It’s a great starting point if you’re trying to make some decisions.

Raised container gardens, such as this one from Cedar Creek, can be a great option for seniors who may not be able to stoop or kneel for long periods of time.

Many seniors are planning to live in their own homes throughout their lives. While an assisted living facility is an option, many like to keep their independence as long as they can. The decision to age in place is a big one and requires some planning. For some, it is the call of the outdoors that helps them decide to age in place. Only a few institutions allow their residents to keep a yard or a garden.

This article will give you an overview of considerations to remain in your home and enjoy your yard and garage safely. While not a complete list, this should at least give you a good idea of some changes you should be thinking about.

In the Beginning

The first recommendation is to hire a National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) Certified Aging-in-Place Specialist (CAPS), such as Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations. We have studied the issues and solutions to help make your garage and yard safer and more enjoyable as you advance in years.

Clutter

The most important issue for folks aging in place is clutter. It is difficult to get rid of the “stuff” you’ve accumulated over the years, but now it is necessary. Maybe it is time to return some of your unused gifts to the giver. Ask your family if they have use for the things you are not using. Have a garage sale. Donate to charity. Clean out the clutter. You will find it easier to move around your house and garage if the way is clear.

Grab bars, Grab bars, and Grab bars

Add grab bars to the sides of your garage/house door, especially if there is a threshold or an elevations change. There are never too many grab bars. Add grab bars anyplace that you may be standing for a long time such as near the work bench.

Workbenches

Take a look at the work benches in your garage or potting shed. If you’re is going to sit while using the work bench, it should be 26 to 28 inches from the floor. People sitting in wheelchairs will need knee spaces at least 27 inches high, 30 inches wide, and 19 inches deep, according to the Americans with Disabilities Act guidelines.

Garage Maneuvering Room

If you are going to be using a wheelchair or walker, consider that ADA guidelines specify a minimum clear space of 60 inches in diameter for a wheelchair to make a 180-degree turn and about 36 inches clearance between walls. This means that your two car garage may only accommodate one car and room for a wheelchair.

Another concern in many garages is there are often steps up from the floor of the garage into the house. There are specially designed wheelchair lifts that can help people cross this threshold. Depending on space you can also build a ramp. We can help you plan for using a wheelchair in your garage.

Gardens and Yards

• Faucets should be lever-operated for easier use.
• Install faucets or hose connections near each planting bed for convenience.
• Planting beds should be elevated about 27 inches for easier gardening and should be about 24 inches wide so that their middle is accessible.
• Consider installing a few container gardens, again making them at least 27 inches high.
• Firm surface walks should surround each planting bed.
• If you will need to work for long periods of time, get a good pair of knee pads, and an outdoor seat.

Walks and Patios

Make sure your walks and patios are stable, firm and slip-resistant. They should be at least 36 inches wide and have a raised lip on the edges to accommodate a wheelchair. Handrails at 34 to 38 inches above the surface would also be useful to prevent falls.

Lighting

Lights Installed from both the ground and above head high will light pathways and walks for the best visibility. As you age, you really cannot have too many lights available. Your CAPS can help you figure out where and what types of lights are best for your plan.

A Certified Aging-In-Place Specialist such as Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations understands the needs you have and is trained to help you sort through these decisions and make it easier for you to choose the ones that are right for you. If you are considering options for aging in place in the Portland, OR area then callVancouver, WA Contractors Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations at 360-571-7027 or fill out our form for a free consultation.

If you have decided that living at home during your later years beats moving into an assisted-living facility, then you’ll need to plan ahead. Bathrooms are a major consideration for aging-in-place upgrades, if for the simple reason that there are hazards that go hand-in-hand with the slippery surfaces found in most of them.

This article will give you an overview of considerations and solutions so that if your bathroom needs some changes you can have them done now.

There are many different styles of walk-in tubs, with many that integrate nicely with high-end homes.

First Steps to Creating an Aging-in-Place Bathroom

First, hire a Certified NAHB Aging-in-Place Specialist (CAPS) such as Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations. We have passed a program to prepare homes for aging in place.

Second, make sure you have a bath on the same level as your bedroom and one on the level where you will spend most of your day.

Grab bars, Grab bars, and Grab bars

There are never too many grab bars in a bathroom. You’ll need to start with making sure there is enough bracing in the framing in walls, around the tub, shower, shower seat, and toilet for installation of grab bars to support 250 – 300 pounds. Make sure there is one on the inside and outside of the bathtub and shower, one or more near the commode, one by the sink…etc. Put double rows in places where the user may be either standing or seated. Great news for the decorator in you, grab bars come in many finishes.

Toilets

The toilet is undoubtedly the most necessary seat in the house. For folks whose knees don’t bend like they used to, a taller commode (generally 2.5 inches taller than the standard) will be easier to use. If someone in the house will be using a wheelchair, the commode’s seat height should be near the wheelchair’s seat height.

Showers and Baths

After the toilet, showers and baths are major considerations. The possibility of slipping and falling in a unprepared bath can be pretty high, so make sure to consider some of these changes:

• If you install a stand-up shower, make sure it is curbless and minimum of 36 inches wide;
• If you prefer a bathtub – consider buying one with a door or at least one that is lower for easier access;
• In the shower add removable shower heads with 6-foot hoses so you can bath with a minimum of foot movement;
• Install a sliding track for the shower head to allows its use both standing and sitting;
• Add Fold-down Shower seats;
• Consider a shower stall with built-in antibacterial protection.

Counters and Cabinets

For someone who is going to be sitting while using a counter, it should be 26 to 28 inches from the floor. People sitting in wheelchairs will need knee spaces at least 27 inches high, 30 inches wide, and 19 inches deep, according to the Americans with Disabilities Act guidelines. Some other things to consider:

• Add a rounded edge finish on the counter top’s edge;
• Choose a wall-hanging sink that provides accessibility and knee room (with a panel to shield the pipes);
• Install “D” shaped knobs on cabinet doors;
• Provide pull-out shelves and Lazy Susans for storage areas.

Maneuvering Room

If someone is going to be using a wheelchairs or walker, consider that ADA guidelines specify a minimum clear space of 60 inches in diameter for a wheelchair to make a 180-degree turn and about 36 inches clearance between walls. Make sure that there is enough room to have the wheelchair beside the commode for an easier transfer from one to the other. We how to make sure your bathroom will have the space for a wheelchair to turn.

Fixtures and Faucets

These simple changes to your bathroom fixtures are easily overlooked but can have an impact on livability:

• Buy lever-operated faucets;
• Even better, buy electronically-controlled touch or push-type faucets that are pre-programed to keep water at safe temperatures;
• Install a toilet paper holder that can be changed with one hand.

Floors

Make sure your flooring is stable, firm and slip-resistant. A textured tile can help reduce the chance of falls.

Lighting

Install more lighting. You will use every light you’ve put in. We can help you figure out where and what types of lights are best for your plan. Also, consider using the rocker-type light switches.

A Certified Aging-In-Place Specialist such as Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations understands the needs you have and is trained to help you sort through these decisions and make it easier for you to choose the ones that are right for you. If you are considering options for aging in place in the Portland, OR area then call Vancouver, WA Contractors Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations at 360-571-7027 or fill out our form for a free consultation.

For many homeowners, nothing speaks to the soul of the home as much as the kitchen. It’s a place where the morning coffee lives, where cookies are made, and where families and friends bond over meals. So when people begin to consider living throughout their senior years at home, the kitchen becomes a major consideration and a place where a little thought and attention can really help make it safe, accessible, and useful.

In this article we’re taking a closer look at some things people can do to make sure their kitchens are aging-in-place ready.

In the Beginning

The first step is to hire a Certified NAHB Aging-in-Place Specialist (CAPS) such as Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations. We have passed a program to prepare homes for aging in place and can help you design your kitchen to use safely and comfortably for years to come.

Counters

Right now, you may be using your counters in a standing position, so at least some of them should be at that level. Later, you may find it more comfortable to use them while sitting. Then your counters should be 26 to 28 inches from the floor. The Americans with Disabilities Act guidelines (ADA) say “if seating for people in wheelchairs is provided at tables or counters, knee spaces at least 27 inches high, 30 inches wide, and 19 inches deep shall be provided.” Here’s some other tips:

• Lower some of your counters to make them accessible via wheel chair;
• Provide counter space next to appliances for dish landing;
• Add some accent colors or stripes to the edges of cabinets to give contrast and aid visibility.

Cabinets, Shelves and Storage

Cabinets, too, are something you’ll be using every day. The keys are to make items in the cabinets easier to see and to reach:

• Lower the wall cabinets;
• Install rolling shelves, Lazy-Susan inserts, and pull-down shelving;
• Install open-fronts or transparent doors;
• Put a drawer or two in base cabinets;
• Change to “D” shaped knobs;
• Elevate cabinets 6 inches from the floor;
• Mount wall cabinets no more than 48 inches from the floor.

Maneuvering Room

Wheelchairs and walkers require more space to maneuver than do legs. ADA guidelines specify a minimum clear space of 60 inches in diameter for a wheelchair to make a 180-degree turn and about 36 inches clearance between walls. We can help you integrate these changes in your design.

Appliances and Plumbing

Most, if not all, of your appliances will have to be replaced. Items to consider are:

• Larger displays
• A freezer-on-the-bottom or a side-by-side refrigerator
• Induction cook tops and ovens
• Elevated dishwasher
• Cook top controls in the front and clearly marked
• Electrical outlets at 27 inches above the floor
• Sink controls on the side

According to the ADA, “lever-operated, push-type, touch-type, or electronically controlled” faucets are the best designs for easier use.

Floors, doors and thresholds

Make sure your flooring is stable, firm and slip-resistant. Replace ceramic tile floors with hardwood or vinyl for easy standing. Raised thresholds can be a trip hazard, so try to keep them at 1/4 inch high or less. Doors should be easy to open. Let us help you find lever-type door handles that will fit your decor and be easy for you to open.

Lighting

Probably the most important consideration of aging in place is lighting your home. Install more lighting. And, install even more lighting. You will use every light you’ve put in. Also, consider using the rocker-type light switches.

Communication and Safety

Don’t overlook these key elements to making a safe kitchen:

• Keep your phone close by and handy to decrease the need to hurry, which decreases the possibility of falling, and which can be helpful in emergencies;
• Consider installing grab bars near areas where changing seats or going from sitting to standing is necessary;
• Replace your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors with audio and visual alarms.

A Certified Aging-In-Place Specialist such as Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations understands the needs you have and is trained to help you sort through these decisions and make it easier for you to choose the ones that are right for you. If you are considering options for aging in place in the Portland, OR area then call Vancouver, WA Contractors Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations at 360-571-7027 or fill out our form for a free consultation.

In some ways a few older homes can set the standard for aging-in-place design of entryways. For instance, the dogtrot floor plan, which began as a covered connecting hallway between two cabins to aid ventilation in times without air conditioning, was well lit and wide. And when the dogtrot evolved into the large, chandelier-lit entry halls of stately Southern mansions like Tara in “Gone with the Wind,” they become perfect for people who needed plenty of room to maneuver and plenty of light.

In more modern homes, the entry is often much smaller and therefore the 95 percent of people over the age of 75 who want to age in place are planning to make their entries safer and easier to navigate.

With that in mind we’ve listed a few things you can consider when you are updating your entryways and hallways. We’re always trying to keep in mind that safety, access, and maneuvering room are keys to success.

First Step

First, consider hiring a Certified National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) Aging-in-Place Specialist (CAPS), such as Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations. We have studied the solutions for making a home safe for aging in place.

Maneuvering Room

If someone is going to be using a wheelchairs or walker, consider that ADA guidelines specify a minimum clear space of 60 inches in diameter for a wheelchair to make a 180-degree turn and about 36 inches clearance between walls. Your CAPS knows how to make sure your entry will have the space for a wheelchair to turn.

Steps, Ramps, Hand Rails and Thresholds

Here are some considerations from the American with Disabilities Act recommendations for steps, ramps, hand rails and thresholds:

• Steps and Ramps should be free of clutter;
• Steps and Ramps should be well lit;
• Steps and Ramps should be built to be slip-resistant
• Handrails should extend beyond the top and bottom of stairs;
• Handrails should be between 34 inches and 38 inches high and 1.5 inches from the wall;
• Handrails should not roll or swivel in their mounting hardware;
• Ramps have a maximum slope of 1:12, ask you CAPS to explain;
• Ramps need a landing at least 60 inches square if the ramp changes direction;
• Thresholds should not be taller than 1/4 inch.

Doors and Floors

Again, maneuvering room, access, and safety play important parts in door and floor design. Wide doors and slip resistent floors are key.

Door should be:

• A minimum of 36 inches wide;
• Outfitted with levered handles instead of round knobs.

Floors should be:

• Slip resistant;
• Free of throw rugs;
• Textured if possible.

Grab bars, Grab bars, and Grab bars

There are never too many grab bars. Any place a person would be changing position from standing or seated, there should be grab bars. In an entry, grab bars should also be located where people would be putting on or taking off wraps and coats. Believe it or not. the decorator in you will be happy to know grab bars come in many finishes.

Lighting

Entries can have tall ceilings that swallow the light. Make sure you have enough light inside and outside your entry. There is never too much light. You will use every light you’ve put in. Your CAPS can help you figure out where and what types of lights are best for your plan. Also, consider using the rocker-type light switches.

A Certified Aging-In-Place Specialist such as Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations understands the needs you have and is trained to help you sort through these decisions and make it easier for you to choose the ones that are right for you. If you are considering options for aging in place in the Vancouver, WA or Portland, OR areas then call Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations at 360-571-7027 or fill out our form for a free consultation on aging in place.

In the market for a new hot water heater? Knowing which appliance is right for you can make the process much, much easier. We’ve compiled these lists of pros and cons to help you decide which heater best meets your needs.

Costs of Tankless vs Traditional Hot Water Heaters

We asked our favorite plumber, Mike from Summit Northwest in Vancouver, WA, to provide us with some general pricing on traditional hot water heaters and tankless ones as well as installation costs. Not surprisingly, tankless water heaters were more expensive to buy and install:

According to mike, these are basic installation costs that you might pay in new construction. In existing homes, you would need to pay extra for piping and venting to units that are installed where no previous unit existed. So if you’re thinking about replacing a water tank with something tankless you will probably pay even more for installation.

Now let’s take a look at the units themselves.

The Tankless Hot Water Heater

Tankless hot water heaters provide instantaneous hot water because they heat the hot water as it is needed, rather than storing and heating a tank full around the clock. They are widely used throughout Europe and are increasingly used here in the US. Popular brands include Bosch, Rinnai, and Noritz (thanks to Noritz for the photo).

Pros

• Energy Efficient - Tankless heaters operate on demand, eliminating the need to use precious energy to keep a tank warm throughout the day.
• Compact - These small, wall mounted water heaters can be installed almost anywhere in your home. That means you gain square footage and can place your tankless heater close to where you use the most hot water.
• Long-Lasting - Tankless water heaters are made from stainless steel, so they are durable and long-lasting. The average life span is 20 years, five to 10 years longer than the average traditional heater.
• Endless Supply - Imagine taking a 24-hour shower and never running out of hot water. With a tankless water heater, that dream could be a reality since they operate on demand.

Cons

• Price - Tankless water heaters cost more than traditional hot water storage tanks. Some prices even 3-4 times higher for the unit. On top of that, installation, piping, and venting are pricier as well. If you are doing a renovation for your home, transitioning to this new innovation can be expensive and complicated as well.
• Performance – Electric units don’t perform as well as the gas ones. They consume a lot of energy to heat the water for your home. Also, while hot water production is endless, it is not generally a large enough quantity to serve two major water uses at once, for example two showers or a shower and dishwasher at the same time.
• Delivery Delay - With tankless water heaters, heating begins instantaneously, but delivery of hot water does not. Users must let the water run for a while until it reaches the appropriate hot temperature and reaches your faucet. This waste of water can be frustrating for some and downright infuriating for the greenest consumer. On the other hand, this can happen with traditional tanks too when the tank is positioned a distance away from the shower head.
• Cold Water Sandwich - Since tankless systems heat on demand, the heating mechanism turns off when the faucet turns off. When two people shower back to back, the tankless switches off when the first person turns off the faucet. When the second person showers, they’ll start their shower with the hot water left in the pipes, but will experience a sudden burst of cold water that flowed into the system when the faucet was turned on again. Then the hot water will resume. While not a deal breaker concerning the tankless, the cold water sandwich is an occurrence to be aware off.

Traditional Hot Water Storage Tank

Traditional hot water storage tanks hold and heat a pre-determined amount of water so that water is hot and ready to use whenever you need it. Water can be used for numerous events – showers, dishwashing, laundry, etc. – at the same time until the water is gone. Popular brands include A.O. Smith and Rheem (thanks to Rheem for the photo).

Pros

• Low Cost – Traditional hot water storage tanks are inexpensive – to buy, to install, and to replace. This low price tag can be a real bonus when you all you really want is a hot shower.
• Dependable - The technology is proven to work and can often be repaired within the life cycle. For years, this has been the go-to appliance for home hot water needs.
• Efficient - Hot water storage tanks have come into the 21st century in terms of efficiency. While not necessarily the most efficient way to heat water for the home, these tanks have now been awarded the Energy Star rating. It is easy to find one that is better than your last, and with a little searching, you can find one that rival tankless heaters.
• Easy to use and replace - If you’re remodeling, you may be considering revamping your hot water heating system. The easiest and least expensive move during a remodel is to replace your current hot water storage tank. Installing tankless can be costly and difficult.

Cons

• All Day Long - Traditional hot water heaters fill their tanks and then proceed to heat the water 24 hours a day. This continuous energy usage adds up over time and impacts you in terms of dollars and the environment.
• Spacious - And not in a good way. Tank water heaters are large and cumbersome. They take up valuable square footage in your home and must have secure area dedicated to water heating instead of Wii or closet space.
• Gone when it’s gone - When your hot water tank runs out, that’s it for hot water usage until it refills and reheats. That means if you’re last on the shower rotation, you may be taking a quick cold one rather than a luxurious hot shower. Think about it.
• Life span - The average life span of a hot water storage tank is 10-15 years. That means that you could replace your heater a minimum of three times during the time you are paying off your mortgage. Adding the cost and the hassle and multiplying by three may be more than you are up for.

Hopefully this Series on water and water heaters has helped you weigh out your usage and decide what is right for your home. If you’re still undecided or need help with an installation plan, contact me at john@fazzhomes.com.

Links:

• Consumer Reports review of tankless water heaters
• Rheem
• AOSmith
• Bosch
• Rinnai
• Noritz
• Energy Star

If the time has come to replace your hot water system, you may be asking yourself “just how much hot water do we really need?” We’ve created this blog post to help you determine your water usage, so you can make an informed decision concerning your hot water heater and where you might be able to save.

Check your water bill

Each period, the water company reads your usage meter and charges you accordingly. To find your daily water consumption, divide the number of gallons on your bill by the number of days between readings. This should give you a general idea of your daily consumption.

Determine your First Hour Rating (FHR)

Your First Hour Rating (FHR) is a necessity when determining the appropriate size of hot water heater you need for your home. By calculating how many gallons of water you use during the peak hour of consumption in your home, you will know the largest size of heater you need.

For example, if during your home’s peak usage time, your family takes 3 showers (at 20 gallons of water each) and you run the automatic dishwasher (at 10 gallons), your FHR would be 70 gallons.

Check out these FHR calculators if you need help adding up your home’s FHR.

Take a Good Look

Now that you know your FHR, you may be motivated to know just how much water your family is using in total. Are your thrifty ways adding money to your pocket and life to the planet? Or are you watching your savings go down the drain?

H2O Conserve has created a step-by-step water calculator that helps you determine your home’s total water usage. It only takes a few minutes and can be the key to enlightenment – well at least water enlightenment. The site also showcases several water saving tips that range from pricey fixes to free ones.

The more informed you are as a consumer, the better decisions you’ll make. And that translates into years of cost savings and hot showers.