Take a few moments to consider what is lurking inside your garage and how you might quickly get it prepared for the coming colder months.

Not a breezeway: It is important to check the doors of your garage for air leaks, most importantly any doors that lead from the garage into your home. If the door doesn’t seal properly or if venting from an attached laundry is askew, you can experience air leaks both into and out of your home. During the fall and winter, losing warm air from your home to your garage can cost you a considerable chunk of change. And if carbon monoxide emissions from your vehicle enter your home, it can cost you and your family even more dearly. Taking 10 minutes to check and repair any air leaks in your garage entrance can save you money, health, and maybe your life.

Icky chemicals: If you garage is like mine, it is home to a variety of chemical products that are used around the house. Over time and with temperature fluctuations, these products can emit nasty toxins into the air. And if the packaging is damaged, you may find yourself up to your elbows in messy chemical leaks. To prevent these messy situations, take the time now to sort and store paint, fertilizer, pesticides and other household chemicals in sealed plastic containers.

For the birds: Many homeowners in the northwest like to encourage birds to visit their backyards by hanging feeders. In my yard, the seed is appreciated by finches, towhees, robins, and more, especially in the harsh, hard-to-find-snacks seasons of winter and spring. Storing the seed in my garage makes sense. To keep out any other creatures (think mice and squirrels) who might enjoy moving into a warm home with a buffet, store the seed in heavy plastic or metal bins with secure lids.

Store it: If you use your garage as storage for off-season clothes, old papers, and holiday decorations, now is the time to create an elevated storage system for these valued items. Leaks in your garage can saturate treasured keepsakes turning them into trash. Not all leaks will be evident with the initial rains; some will appear after months of rain. So this fall, check your garage for evidence of leaks and put in shelves or roof-suspended storage (http://ezinearticles.com/?Overhead-Garage-Storage—Find-New-Storage-in-Your-Garage-With-DIY-Garage-Ceiling-Storage-Racks&id=4452486) in your garage. You’ll be happy you did.

Muddy Buddy: During the long wet rainy season in the Pacific Northwest, many homeowners use the garage as an impromptu mud room. Go one step further this summer and convert an area of your garage into a muddy buddy. All you need are a few convenience items – a boot tray to hold muddy, wet shoes; a floor mat or scraper for cleaning shoes; a rack for coats and hats; and a stool or bench for changing shoes. Creating this little muddy haven now can mean cleaner floors and fewer last minute “Where are my shoes?” moments when you’re heading out the door this fall.

Previous posts in this series:

Part 1: Tips for Cleaning Up Your Yard and Garden

It's before Labor Day and some of our trees are already showing signs that they're getting ready for winter. You should, too.

In this three-part post, we’re sharing our advice on getting your home ready for fall. We’ve broken down the information into bite-sized bits that should be easy to tackle – whether you’re doing a little at a time over the next few weeks, or taking on all your preparations over the long holiday weekend.

Fall Fix Ups: Yard and Garden

The weather is still warm and dry. The kids are out of school for a few more days. All you really want to do is enjoy these last sunny days of summer. Do I have to clean up the yard now? you think. Well, of course you don’t have to do it now, but if you wait, you’ll be shivering in your slicker in the rain trying to clean up your yard later.

Here’s our to-do list to make your yard clean up a snap:

Trim, trim, trim: Overgrown plants that touch your house can become a superhighway for pests like spiders and insects. And as the weather turns cooler, they’ll be looking for a warm place to nest. Overhanging tree limbs can damage roofs and windows, and the leaves they shed in fall can clog gutters. By trimming back trees, shrubbery, and summer plants now, you’ll save yourself a lot of hassle next season. Also, be sure to rake away any foliage that is near your foundation, especially if it is edible, to discourage pests and siding damage.

Stop sprinkling: As the rainy season sets in, you’ll need to water your lawn less and less. Take the time now to flush your in-ground sprinkler system and have the back flow checked. This will save you time next summer when you need those sprinklers to be working. If you have been using a hose-operated sprinkler, empty those hoses and bring them inside for storage. If they are left outside during the winter, wet hoses will be prone to splitting and cracking, forcing you to replace them at an added expense next summer.

Store safely: Once you’ve brought in your harvest of zucchini and tomatoes and made your last bouquet of glads and dahlias, it is time to clean and store your summer gardening tools. Oiling and sharpening any blades will make your spring garden prep easier. But be sure to keep your rake, leaf blower, and lawn mower handy. As the fall progresses, you will need to drain your lawn mower and store it for the winter, but during the transition season in the northwest, we still get plenty of sun and rain, making mowing necessary a while longer.

Swab the deck: When the summer barbeques are all done it is time to winterize your deck or patio. Clean your patio furniture and grill. Store them in a safe, dry location for the winter. Month after month of driving rain can rust out a new grill in a season. And wind storms throw branches that can tear through patio chairs and break tables. Keep your items safe in a garage or shed for the winter. And check out how to make your deck clean and sturdy in our previous blog post.

Winterize your lawn: Fall is a great time to refurbish your lawn. Thatching, fertilizing, and reseeding will keep your lawn looking healthy and green throughout the wet winter season. And it can undo a summer’s worth of damage from the Slip-and-Slide.

Plan for next year: After your yard is cleaned up, you’ll have space to dream about what you’d like to do with it next year. Put in a rose garden. Add a play structure. Invest in a hot tub. Construct a retaining wall. Whatever you’d like to do, Fazzolari Custom Homes can help you achieve your dream garden. Need a little inspiration? Join us at the Portland Fall Home & Garden Show where you’ll find a world of ideas.

At Fazzolari Custom Homes, we never build the same home twice. Our customers and clients each have very distinct ideas about what they want in a home. As custom builders,  we have very particular ideas about the best ways to integrate those ideas into a your not-another-in-the-world-like-it home.

With all the musing and thinking and daydreaming and imagining and planning and coordinating that comes with building your own unique home, it can be difficult to keep track of all your inspirations. So to help our clients organize all their ideas into one central location, Fazzolari Custom Homes is giving away an iPad to one lucky person.

You can customize your iPad as much as you customize your home, thanks to apple’s revolutionary design. Using the iPad is a great way to experience the web, email, photos, and video. Use it to integrate your favorite movies, web sites, music, email, apps and more. And of course you can use your new iPad to find inspiration and organize the ideas for your custom home.

How To Enter the Drawing

Our giveaway is in conjunction with the Portland Fall Home & Garden Show, and the best thing is, you have two ways to enter the drawing:

- Register at our booth: Stop by the Fazzolari Custom Homes booth #249 in Exhibit Hall E at the show Sept. 30-Oct. 3, 2010 to submit your registration (map).

- Or, “like” us on Facebook to enter: If you’re a member of Facebook you can look to the right of this page and click the “like” button in the Facebook box or go to our Facebook page. If you’re already a fan on Facebook, you’ll be automatically entered to win.

The week after the show we’ll randomly select the winner from our Facebook friends and from those who entered during the show.

Don’t Forget Your Coupon

In addition to the iPad giveaway, we also have a coupon for the Portland Fall Home & Garden Show that you’re welcome to download, print, and show at the door for $2 off regular admission Friday and Saturday.

So join us at the show to find a little inspiration for your home and have the chance to customize your computing experience with a new iPad courtesy of Fazzolari Custom Homes.

Fazzolari Custom Homes & Renovations will be making another appearance at the 2010 Portland Fall Home & Garden Show, Sept. 30-Oct. 3, 2010 at the Portland Expo Center. The show starts Thursday, Sept. 30 at 11am and closes shop Sunday at 6pm.

This year our booth location will be Booth #249 in exhibit hall E. Check out this year’s show map to help you find us.

Giving Away an iPad

We’ll also be giving away an iPad this year at the how. You can register for the drawing at our booth or if you are a registered Facebook friend you will be automatically entered in the drawing.

Show Coupon

You can download and print this $2 coupon for the Portland 2010 Fall Home and Garden Show (it’s good for Friday and Saturday) and if you want a chance to win two free tickets to the show courtesy of Fazzolari Custom Homes & Renovations, be sure to become a friend on Facebook or follow us on Twitter to learn about details on how to enter the ticket drawing.

We’ll be updating you on the show and on our drawings, so be sure to check back here or on our Facebook page for more details.

Show Details:

General Admission: $10

Hours:
Thursday, Sept. 30: 11am – 8pm
Friday, Oct. 1: 11am – 8pm
Saturday, Oct. 2: 10am – 8pm
Sunday, Oct. 3: 10am – 6pm

Location:
Portland Expo Center
2060 North Marine Drive
Portland, Oregon 97217
Directions and Map

Living in the Pacific Northwest, the major thing we have to contend with is moisture. While rain isn’t going to hurt your deck, standing water can, as can water that is allowed to seep into wood which has not, for whatever reason, been completely sealed or waterproofed. Those living on the coast often have salt spray to contend with, while those living east of the Cascades may experience damage to their deck from the sun’s rays, although sunshine usually causes far fewer problems than moisture. Here are some things you can do, no matter what type of deck you have, or where you live, that can help keep it in tip-top shape.

1. Inspect the Surface - Deck inspection can for the most part be an ongoing thing, even though we tend not to recognize problems that develop slowly. A loose board can be just that, something to be tightened back down. If it’s not tightened down, or becomes loose again, a real problem could be in the making. Stains have a way of becoming permanent, and bubbles or chips of loose paint rarely fix themselves. You don’t have to have a full-blown inspection every week, annually will probably do, but make it a good one. Check for loose nails or loose boards, stains, grease spots if you have a grill or outdoor kitchen on the deck, fading or flaking paint, and any sign of mildew or rot. If you have a stained surface, use a garden hose, or wait for a rainy day and see if water still beads up on the deck surface or has begin to sink into the wood. When wetting the deck down, note if there are places where water tends to stand. Standing water could indicate need to install a new plank, or simply serve as a reminder to sweep away water the when it accumulates.

2. Inspect the Structure - Besides checking on the condition of the deck’s surface, check fasteners, such as nails and screws, and the condition of planks where they abut and moisture may tend to accumulate or sit. Look between the planks as well. In the Northwest, fir needles will fall on a deck’s surface, eventually finding their way into cracks between the planks. This is especially true for the nice home that’s situated in a woodsy Northwest setting. Here they accumulate, especially where the planks are sitting atop joists. Moisture, trapped by the needles, can cause rot to set in at the junction of plank and joist, and in the planks as well if they’re untreated. If you have a deck with a painted or stained surface, the sides of the planks are most often untreated, and therefore subject to moisture-induced rot. If you find a loose nail, it’s best to replace it, either with a deck nail or a screw. Pounding it back in seldom works. Screws seldom work their way out, but if a plank is loose where it’s been screwed down, you’d better check for rot.

3. Cleaning a Wood Deck - Normally you’ll inspect your deck before cleaning it, but it won’t hurt to give it a quick check after it’s been cleaned to see if you’ve missed something. The first thing you’ll want to do is get all the needles or other debris out from between the planks or anywhere else they’ve accumulated. If you’re going to apply a sealant, you don’t want to be sealing in debris and the moisture than goes with it. Use a garden hose or power washer to clean out between the planks and other hard to get at areas. In some instances, a thin blade, such as a putty knife, may come in handy. To clean the surface you can either use a strong TSP solution, or a commercial deck cleaner. When using the latter, always read the directions to make certain you have the right product. Bleach can also be used, especially if you’re planning on repainting or staining. Whatever cleaning solution you choose, even if it’s just a detergent, cover anything under the deck that needs to be covered, like plants or lawn furniture. If you elect to use a power sprayer, keep the stream wide so as not to “dig” a pattern into the surface, or tear off a piece of wood should you hit a crack.

4. Cleaning a Composite Deck - Despite their well-deserved reputation for being low-maintenance, composite decks are seldom maintenance free. While dirt and debris usually wash away easily with plain water, a commercial cleaner will usually be needed to get rid of stains, especially mildew stains. When possible, first check with the manufacturer of the decking material. They’ll be happy to provide cleaning tips and advise you as to which commercial cleaners are most appropriate. When using a deck cleaner, the usual procedure is to spray it on (you can use a cheap hand pumped sprayer), let it sit for about 20 minutes, then wash it off with a garden hose. Mildew stains and ground in dirt usually disappear with this treatment. Composite decks in general should never be sanded to remove a spot or stain, and caution should be taken in using a power sprayer. Either method could break up the fibers on the surface, further encouraging mildew or the accumulation of grime.

5. Cleaning A Cedar Or Redwood Deck - Cleaning a cedar or redwood deck is similar to cleaning a composite deck in many respects. Cedar and redwood, and most treated woods, are decay resistant, and also have less of a tendency to harbor mildew, although in areas receiving heavy moisture, mildew can still be a problem. Power washing is not recommended on cedar decks, as being a soft wood the cedar could too easily be damaged. There are special cleaners on the market for cedar decking and it is also a good idea to apply a brightener after the deck has dried to restore the natural look of the wood.

6. Proper Use Of The Power Sprayer - We’ve touched upon using a power sprayer when cleaning a deck, an admitted time saver. It’s well worth reiterating however, that unless you plan to repaint the surface, using a narrow, high-pressure stream of water is not always a good idea, as it can gouge wood surfaces to a degree even paint can’t hide, and can destroy the surface integrity of composite decking. It’s best to use a 2′ or 3′ wide stream, holding the nozzle about 2′ above the surface of the deck, and swinging the nozzle back and forth like a pendulum. Tough stains should be left to be taken care of with a deck cleansing solution, rather than attempting to power spray them away.

7. When Not To Use Sandpaper - Wood decks on occasion need to refinished and in the process sanded, and spot sanding may sometimes be in order as well. Sandpaper should not be used on a composite deck however, unless the manufacturer’s specification dictates otherwise. Sanding a composite deck can destroy the integrity of the surface, which otherwise tends to be impervious to moisture or grime.

8. Using A Sealant - Choosing a deck sealer is a little like choosing a political party. Some will agree with your choice while others will strongly disagree. Do a splash test to see if you even need a sealer. If water splashed on a stained deck forms beads, you may not need a sealer. Here in the Northwest, it’s advisable to apply a sealer at least every other year, and in some cases annually.

9. Repainting Or Staining - Once you’ve cleaned your deck, and perhaps used a deck brightener as well, you can usually tell if staining or painting is in order. The important thing is to make certain that your deck is squeaky clean first, and this is another place where the splash test comes in handy, especially if you have a barbecue grill or any other cooking equipment on your deck. The splash test will tell you if there is any grease on the surface or embedded in the decking. If so, it needs to be removed so your new finish can adhere.

10. Make Deck Maintenance An Annual Thing - Deck maintenance is something that is too easily put off, until next month, until the fall, or until next spring. Before you know it, 3 or 4 years have gone by, and an afternoon’s work has suddenly become something much bigger, and possibly much more expensive. This is once occasion where taking the time to make a careful and thorough inspection of your deck will pay big dividends in the long run.

As we always say, if you have any questions about decks feel free to call Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations at 360-571-7027 or fill out our form for a free consultation.

This elegant outdoor covered patio and kitchen is perfect for entertaining in all weather. Even if you're not going all-out on your design, your outdoor kitchen can be just as functional.

In planning for an outdoor kitchen when you live in the Northwest, the first thing that usually comes to mind is the weather, specifically rain. Don’t let that stop you. In other parts of the country, folks have to put up with wind, dust, pollution, temperatures that restrict outdoor eating and entertaining to the evening hours, and even tornadoes. So these considerations count for all of us. In the Northwest we’re really quite fortunate. The months when it’s the coldest we usually don’t consider eating out of doors anyway, and as far the rest of the year is concerned, protecting the kitchen and the guests usually isn’t all that difficult.

1. Don’t Let Worry Stop You Before You Start – If you don’t heed this piece of advice, you needn’t read further. Just consider the fact that there are going to be more than enough days of great or at least decent weather where you and your guests can truly enjoy all an outdoor kitchen has to offer.

2. Location – This recently was an issue of mine since my main grill and outdoor eating space is on a different floor than the kitchen. Honestly, I get tired of running up and down the stairs to the kitchen when I forget something. Try to keep your outdoor kitchen close to house and as close as possible to the main kitchen or be prepared to do a lot of walking while you cook.

3. Shade And Cover - Shade and cover doesn’t need to be permanent, if it were you wouldn’t really feel you were out of doors, and you don’t want to place your kitchen and guest seating in a tent. Screens or tarps, umbrellas, or any other type of portable covering needs to be part of your design. If things get bad enough, everyone can move inside, but that will probably happen much less often than you would expect. Umbrellas are particularly important, as most people don’t like sitting and eating under a hot sun any more than in a driving rain. Even here in the Northwest the outdoor eating season can be prolonged with well-placed cover, some heaters and a good sweater!

4. Create Visual Interest – Make your outdoor kitchen a part of the overall area. It can be more than a grill on a patio with a table and chairs facing the grill. Think of the parts of your kitchen, stove, grill, bar, fireplace, whatever, as parts of the landscape, pieces that should fit into the landscape. The truly excellent outdoor kitchen is not only functional, but aesthetically pleasing, a place you and your guests will want to spend some time. Since some, and possibly most of your entertaining will be in the evening, make lighting a top priority, be it strategically placed pathway lights, strings of lights, or tiki torches. The challenge is to provide enough lighting, but not too much. Don’t forget candles, or if impractical, hurricane lamps. Do a little “exterior” decorating.

5. Don’t Forget The Music – Make a sound system a part of your outdoor kitchen design. When we think of kitchens, we don’t usually consider music, but an outdoor kitchen is a place for entertaining, unless you expect everyone will go inside once they’re done eating. You may very well want to have a dancing area in your “kitchen”. Nothing wrong with that.

6. Where Do We Sit? – If you place the seating with everyone facing the grill or fireplace, as many designs dictate, you needn’t worry too much about the overall appearance of the surroundings. The grill has become the alter, and the guests are more or less forced to pay homage to it, and to watching you cook dinner. A good outdoor kitchen design doesn’t have to spotlight the grill, or the fireplace, or the bar. In fact its better it they are slightly off to one side. Let the guests see the back yard, the surrounding scenery if it’s spectacular, or the lawn, garden, or container plants. Living in the Northwest means there is plenty of greenery to look at and on the best days, deep blue skies. Arrange the seating so the guests can look at one another, not just the stove, grill, or bar.

7. How Do We Sit? – Even if your seating arrangements are integrated into the overall design of the kitchen, considerations of comfort should override those of appearance. Sitting on a stone bench isn’t as comfortable as sitting in a folding chair, though you may not care for the latter. When designing your kitchen, the comfort of your guests is as important as are the bells and whistles your grill or other appliances may feature.

8. What Do I Plan To Cook? – If you’re a professional chef, or even a fairly good amateur one, the sky’s the limit as far as the features you may desire your kitchen to have. If hot dogs or grilled finger food is about as far as you want to go, you probably don’t need a $50,000 kitchen except to impress. Granted, an outdoor grill by itself can’t really be considered a kitchen, but the money spent can go into seating, decoration, and landscaping if you really don’t need a top of the line grill, stove, refrigerator, sink, or portable bar. Put another way, if you plan on spending a considerable amount on your outdoor kitchen, learn to cook or hire someone else to do it.

9. How Much To Spend? – Assuming the sky is not the limit, you’re probably not going to want to spend more than you feel you have to. Even if your not going to be doing much more than using a grill, get a good one. If your design calls for a built in grill this is even more important, as although this can be a high-ticket item, it can cost even more have it replaced or repaired, which will likely happen eventually. Even if you save money by using a portable grill, it’s still important to get the best one you think you can afford. Even though the good old Weber that sits on three legs is practically as American as apple pie, you’ll want something larger and nicer appearing, especially if your design is to resemble an outdoor kitchen in any sense of the word.

10. Getting it Done – If you have the time and are willing to accept the challenge, you can manage some or all of the construction yourself. However, in some circumstances you’ll need to be careful. Just like building a home, designing and installing an outdoor kitchen takes planning and preparation. An experienced licensed contractor (like us!) has the skills and tips to make your vision come to life with a minimal number of “oops” moments.

11. Maintenance – This is the least exciting of the tips offered here, but nevertheless important. When you design your kitchen you need to design it with maintenance in mind. It is out of doors after all, and in spite of your most heroic efforts, things are going to get wet and sometimes dirty. This includes not only the appliances but everything else. Stone or ceramic you don’t have to worry too much about, but you’ll have plastics, fabrics, and painted surfaces that have to either be protected or cleaned up and dried out later. Even stainless steel can take a beating over time. It can mean a lot of work if you allow things to get out of hand. You want to plan for an outdoor kitchen that requires a minimum amount of maintenance knowing full well there are maintenance chores that will need to be done. Don’t let yourself become a slave to your kitchen.

If you’re interested in building an outdoor kitchen and live in the Portland, Oregon, or Vancouver, Washington, areas feel free to give Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations a call at 360-571-7027 or fill out our free consultation form and we’ll follow up with you right away.

A play structure has the advantage of not only giving the children a variety of activities, but allows their imaginations to run wild. A fort is always a fun place to hide in, protect, or try to capture. Climbing walls, vines or ropes help a child develop strength and coordination.

You can purchase a play structure as is, in about any size you wish, or in some instances take advantage of combo play structures, where you can join together two or more separate units.

We thought with summer finally here in the Pacific Northwest we would treat you to a set of great play structures, some for older kids, some for toddlers – bearing in mind that even a small play structure can seem pretty awesome to a toddler.

We’ll start with a play house we built for the 2005 Parade of Homes. One of my friends and neighbors liked it enough to bid on it once the show was over. As you can see, copper gutters and a built-in loft put this play house in the awesome category, though I think kids are generally happy with just about anything as long as it doesn’t have a bunch of spiders in it.

The CAD drawing below gives a sample of what a large play structure can look like. This particular model, by Miracle Recreation, covers an area of approximately 60 feet by 70 feet, and has among other features, an observation deck, a lookout tower, several types of climbers, including vine climbers, a slide climber, slides, and horizontal runways. This would be great for your the kids, but at $55,000+ it’s probably best for the local school’s playground. This one, in fact, reminds me a little of the one at the Felida park here in Vancouver.

In selecting a play structure of course you’re not limited to just those shown in brochures, as many manufacturers or retailers build their systems on a modular basis, giving the purchaser a highly customized end product. Some of these play structures come partially assembled, or are put together on site by the retailer or a contractor like us. Many, if not most, could be assembled by the homeowner, barring any restrictions on doing so out of safety or warranty considerations. Most of your larger and truly awesome play structures have foundations embedded in concrete. Smaller versions, such as those shown below, and designed for toddlers or those of preschool age are bolted down and can be somewhat portable.

The above play structures, also by Miracle, run in the neighborhood of $2,000 to $5,000 with many models to choose from.

As the children grow, so do the needs for a larger play structure, eventually getting to a size where Mom and Dad can sneak out for some time on the swings or recapture their youth by going down a slide.

The two examples shown below, both by Backyard Adventures, are of a modular construction, and can take on almost any shape or size. There’s no real requirement to purchase a large multi-functional structure if building one up module by module over time would better suit your needs.

Backyard Adventures features a concept which they call their Adventure Bridge, a component used for tying one or more structures together, as shown in the picture on the right. The bridge itself can be a home to a ship’s wheel, a telescope station, or when 5 feet or higher, become a perfect support for a tire swing. It’s not hard to visualize that given several bridges and several play structure modules, one could easily put together a play structure of truly awesome dimensions.

The structure on the left has these features:

• A Tree house
• A Cabin
• A Lower Cottage (hidden from view)
• A Sun deck and Porch
• Lemonade Stand
• 2 – 14′ Rocket Slides and a 12′ Slide
• 12′ Rocket Slide
• 2 – Adventure Bridges, with Binoculars and a Ship’s wheel, and possibly a Tire Swing.

I installed a set from Backyard Adventures for my kids, and it’s weathered pretty well over the past few years, as you can see from the photo below. (We got ours at The Kids’ Backyard Store in Portland, but you can also get residential ones at places like Costco – where prices start about $1,200.) Like any other piece of playground equipment, some periodic maintenance is going to be needed, but for the most part these structures tend to be low maintenance. I spray mine with the hose once a year and that’s pretty much it. Basically, these structures are designed and manufactured with heavy use in mind. One should reasonably expect to have playground equipment of this type in use for many years, perhaps for more than one generation, without a need for any significant repairs or replacement of parts.

When you stop to think about it, a play structure combined with other standard children’s recreational toys such as bikes, basketball hoops, or trampolines, is a much better investment than a second or third TV set, albeit much more expensive.

Most of us lived in an era where the backyard swing or swing tire pretty much made up our play “structure” and we couldn’t even visualized anything like the play structures currently available unless we visited a large city park or an amusement park. In more recent times, playground items like the “Jungle Gym” kept our kids busy, and when they grew up, it was the trampoline and the sports court where they spent many hours.

When you consider purchasing a play structure, whether it be an all in one package or you choose to go the modular route, you might think this is one of those play things the kids will quickly outgrow, after which it will stand neglected in the back yard. That’s always a possibility of course but through some careful choices it’s possible to “design” a structure that the children will have fun with for a number of years, after which children of guests and your extended family, and even your children’s children can have their turn.

A play structure such as some of those currently on the market can make a wonderful baby sitter while the adults visit. If you have family or friends over for a barbecue, the young ones will not constantly be underfoot once they see what’s out in the back yard.

Here’s hoping you have a great summer!

Is $50 per square foot a good deal on installed granite countertops?

The short answer, of course, is yes. But I would be wary of a $50 installed price for granite. In some instances I’ve seen people buy a slab for more than $50 per square foot and have the installation cost just as much as the material, so it ends up costing them $100 per square foot. The ads I’ve seen for this price nearly always include only the stone, and usually only the more budget pieces. But you can usually find nice stone options in the “standard” materials.

This granite is not an inexpensive piece and the finish and installation work on it is top of the line.

So you really need to MAKE SURE the low price includes all fabrication, setting of the granite, any bull nose edges AND sink cutouts.

There are other costs that can creep up on you: Is the slab 2 cm or 3 cm? If it’s 2cm then will the installers build up the edges to make them appear thicker? Find out if they also provide a backsplash or if you have to do that with tile. (I have gotten quotes without the backsplash and then asked them to “throw it in” to close the deal – after all, they already have the material.) If you do a backsplash in granite make sure it is at least 6 inches tall rather than a standard 3-4 inches. The taller profile makes it look much nicer. Also, see if you will need to move electrical outlets to accommodate the backsplash … another cost.

Is it worth it to install them?

Now the next question – is it worth it? What is the total cost? A few thousand dollars? Do other properties that are for sale in your neighborhood have granite? If so, you may want to do it just to compete and if not you may or may not get your investment back but you may provide the incentive that helps your home sell quicker. If you have a real estate agent they may be able to help assess this but I would say at $50 per square foot, if that is truly the installed price, it will not hurt you much and it could help you. If you currently have Formica or worn tile, the granite will really upgrade the look. Heck, install them and bump the price $5k and know that you have negotiating room.

Learning more about granite and other materials

If you’re interested in redoing your countertops, we recently wrote a pretty lengthy article comparing granite, quartz, and soapstone countertops. It’s a great starting point if you’re trying to make some decisions.

Raised container gardens, such as this one from Cedar Creek, can be a great option for seniors who may not be able to stoop or kneel for long periods of time.

Many seniors are planning to live in their own homes throughout their lives. While an assisted living facility is an option, many like to keep their independence as long as they can. The decision to age in place is a big one and requires some planning. For some, it is the call of the outdoors that helps them decide to age in place. Only a few institutions allow their residents to keep a yard or a garden.

This article will give you an overview of considerations to remain in your home and enjoy your yard and garage safely. While not a complete list, this should at least give you a good idea of some changes you should be thinking about.

In the Beginning

The first recommendation is to hire a National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) Certified Aging-in-Place Specialist (CAPS), such as Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations. We have studied the issues and solutions to help make your garage and yard safer and more enjoyable as you advance in years.

Clutter

The most important issue for folks aging in place is clutter. It is difficult to get rid of the “stuff” you’ve accumulated over the years, but now it is necessary. Maybe it is time to return some of your unused gifts to the giver. Ask your family if they have use for the things you are not using. Have a garage sale. Donate to charity. Clean out the clutter. You will find it easier to move around your house and garage if the way is clear.

Grab bars, Grab bars, and Grab bars

Add grab bars to the sides of your garage/house door, especially if there is a threshold or an elevations change. There are never too many grab bars. Add grab bars anyplace that you may be standing for a long time such as near the work bench.

Workbenches

Take a look at the work benches in your garage or potting shed. If you’re is going to sit while using the work bench, it should be 26 to 28 inches from the floor. People sitting in wheelchairs will need knee spaces at least 27 inches high, 30 inches wide, and 19 inches deep, according to the Americans with Disabilities Act guidelines.

Garage Maneuvering Room

If you are going to be using a wheelchair or walker, consider that ADA guidelines specify a minimum clear space of 60 inches in diameter for a wheelchair to make a 180-degree turn and about 36 inches clearance between walls. This means that your two car garage may only accommodate one car and room for a wheelchair.

Another concern in many garages is there are often steps up from the floor of the garage into the house. There are specially designed wheelchair lifts that can help people cross this threshold. Depending on space you can also build a ramp. We can help you plan for using a wheelchair in your garage.

Gardens and Yards

• Faucets should be lever-operated for easier use.
• Install faucets or hose connections near each planting bed for convenience.
• Planting beds should be elevated about 27 inches for easier gardening and should be about 24 inches wide so that their middle is accessible.
• Consider installing a few container gardens, again making them at least 27 inches high.
• Firm surface walks should surround each planting bed.
• If you will need to work for long periods of time, get a good pair of knee pads, and an outdoor seat.

Walks and Patios

Make sure your walks and patios are stable, firm and slip-resistant. They should be at least 36 inches wide and have a raised lip on the edges to accommodate a wheelchair. Handrails at 34 to 38 inches above the surface would also be useful to prevent falls.

Lighting

Lights Installed from both the ground and above head high will light pathways and walks for the best visibility. As you age, you really cannot have too many lights available. Your CAPS can help you figure out where and what types of lights are best for your plan.

A Certified Aging-In-Place Specialist such as Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations understands the needs you have and is trained to help you sort through these decisions and make it easier for you to choose the ones that are right for you. If you are considering options for aging in place in the Portland, OR area then callVancouver, WA Contractors Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations at 360-571-7027 or fill out our form for a free consultation.

If you have decided that living at home during your later years beats moving into an assisted-living facility, then you’ll need to plan ahead. Bathrooms are a major consideration for aging-in-place upgrades, if for the simple reason that there are hazards that go hand-in-hand with the slippery surfaces found in most of them.

This article will give you an overview of considerations and solutions so that if your bathroom needs some changes you can have them done now.

There are many different styles of walk-in tubs, with many that integrate nicely with high-end homes.

First Steps to Creating an Aging-in-Place Bathroom

First, hire a Certified NAHB Aging-in-Place Specialist (CAPS) such as Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations. We have passed a program to prepare homes for aging in place.

Second, make sure you have a bath on the same level as your bedroom and one on the level where you will spend most of your day.

Grab bars, Grab bars, and Grab bars

There are never too many grab bars in a bathroom. You’ll need to start with making sure there is enough bracing in the framing in walls, around the tub, shower, shower seat, and toilet for installation of grab bars to support 250 – 300 pounds. Make sure there is one on the inside and outside of the bathtub and shower, one or more near the commode, one by the sink…etc. Put double rows in places where the user may be either standing or seated. Great news for the decorator in you, grab bars come in many finishes.

Toilets

The toilet is undoubtedly the most necessary seat in the house. For folks whose knees don’t bend like they used to, a taller commode (generally 2.5 inches taller than the standard) will be easier to use. If someone in the house will be using a wheelchair, the commode’s seat height should be near the wheelchair’s seat height.

Showers and Baths

After the toilet, showers and baths are major considerations. The possibility of slipping and falling in a unprepared bath can be pretty high, so make sure to consider some of these changes:

• If you install a stand-up shower, make sure it is curbless and minimum of 36 inches wide;
• If you prefer a bathtub – consider buying one with a door or at least one that is lower for easier access;
• In the shower add removable shower heads with 6-foot hoses so you can bath with a minimum of foot movement;
• Install a sliding track for the shower head to allows its use both standing and sitting;
• Add Fold-down Shower seats;
• Consider a shower stall with built-in antibacterial protection.

Counters and Cabinets

For someone who is going to be sitting while using a counter, it should be 26 to 28 inches from the floor. People sitting in wheelchairs will need knee spaces at least 27 inches high, 30 inches wide, and 19 inches deep, according to the Americans with Disabilities Act guidelines. Some other things to consider:

• Add a rounded edge finish on the counter top’s edge;
• Choose a wall-hanging sink that provides accessibility and knee room (with a panel to shield the pipes);
• Install “D” shaped knobs on cabinet doors;
• Provide pull-out shelves and Lazy Susans for storage areas.

Maneuvering Room

If someone is going to be using a wheelchairs or walker, consider that ADA guidelines specify a minimum clear space of 60 inches in diameter for a wheelchair to make a 180-degree turn and about 36 inches clearance between walls. Make sure that there is enough room to have the wheelchair beside the commode for an easier transfer from one to the other. We how to make sure your bathroom will have the space for a wheelchair to turn.

Fixtures and Faucets

These simple changes to your bathroom fixtures are easily overlooked but can have an impact on livability:

• Buy lever-operated faucets;
• Even better, buy electronically-controlled touch or push-type faucets that are pre-programed to keep water at safe temperatures;
• Install a toilet paper holder that can be changed with one hand.

Floors

Make sure your flooring is stable, firm and slip-resistant. A textured tile can help reduce the chance of falls.

Lighting

Install more lighting. You will use every light you’ve put in. We can help you figure out where and what types of lights are best for your plan. Also, consider using the rocker-type light switches.

A Certified Aging-In-Place Specialist such as Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations understands the needs you have and is trained to help you sort through these decisions and make it easier for you to choose the ones that are right for you. If you are considering options for aging in place in the Portland, OR area then call Vancouver, WA Contractors Fazzolari Custom Homes and Renovations at 360-571-7027 or fill out our form for a free consultation.